PRINT: Rock Climb Blackened, Smith Rock

Blackened

5.11c/d, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 171 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (m) Smith Rock… > (2) Llama Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

A fun and extremely well protected climb on excellent rock.

Start out on steep ground just right of Condor. A low bolt is followed by some awkward moves up to and over a bulge. After the bulge traverse right following a finger crack with thin feet. Eventually step back left onto the face and finish on steep pockets in the clean white face.

Location

This climb is located in an area just North of the Phoenix Wall. Approach by hiking to Phoenix and traverse back right along the base of the cliff passing 100% Beef, a 5.13 project and Condor (all in the Watt's guide). Blackened is the first bolt line right of the parallel cracks of Condor, it climbs a steep white face with closely spaced bolts.

Protection

9 bolts & loweroffs on anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Said nearing the chains

Blackened

blackened

Cool climb

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bryans

5.11b

This climb can only be 11d if you do the contrived version of staying directly on the bolt line without taking advantage of the obvious stems and rests out right. There is no way it's 11d if you follow the path of least resistance to the chains. All the same, sweet climb. Jun 21, 2006

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ

5.11b/c

Fantastic climb. The grade may be a bit off compared to other .11ds at Smith but it's still loads of fun. Sep 24, 2006

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA

One of the best of the newer climbs at smith. Jan 9, 2007

Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR

If you stay to the right, then you're climbing "Lightly Toasted," a 5.11b. If you stay to the left on the face, then you're on Blackened, the 5.11d described here... hence the contrivance, since the same boltline is used to protect both routes. Sep 12, 2011

JGHarrison harrison
Reno, NV

Really fun line, took some figuring for me to work out the beta. Very sharp. If you are on a road trip save it for the last day. Oct 30, 2011

Isaac Kroger
Little Rock, AR

Holds didn’t feel that sharp compared to the other climbs I’ve done of similar style at Smith. Maybe it’s cleaned up nicely since the last comment in 2011. Jun 2, 2019

Adam Mac
VT

5.11

I pulled a giant block off of this just below the roof today and almost violently murdered all of my friends because I didnt see the x's (after looking at the block, I still didnt see them). That being said, this route is now 100% solid. Some of the best rock in Smith proper. (I said smith proper because the lower gorge always trumps the rest of smith in rock quality) Sep 10, 2019

Scott Becker
Redmond, OR

5.11d

Since I don't see it mentioned anywhere else here: to make this climb 11d, you need to step left as soon as you clip the 5th bolt. Yes, this is contrived but it makes for a fun challange if you're up for it. And it's not like you can step back to the 11- to shake out at any point you want. Both variations are fun. Do what yer psyched on! Apr 15, 2021

Ryan Wood
Bend, OR

5.11c

Honestly these feel about the same grade depending what your strengths are. Contrived regardless. These shouldn’t be separate routes in my humble opinion. Sep 27, 2022

Dan Bookless
Bend, OR

This route doesn’t exist - the route follows the path of least resistance (i.e. lightly toasted). Oct 7, 2022

Ben Kleiman
Oregon

5.11d

This climb obviously exists and is fun and worth doing May 8, 2023