[Hide Comment] I belive the FA was done by Eric Wolfe Feb 18, 2007

[Hide Comment] You are correct. Nice to see some stars.

I originally rated this .10d cuz it wasn't any harder than Hemp Liberation - LOL!

--Erik Nov 5, 2008

[Hide Comment] I liked this route mainly because I felt that it doesn't climb like most of Smith... of course, perhaps I just didn't do it right.
Really good line. Feb 17, 2010

[Hide Comment] Thankfully it was upgraded... basing ANY 5.10 grade off Hemp Liberation would be a HUGE sandbag!! That thing is ridiculously hard for a "5.10" Mar 8, 2012

[Hide Comment] Small update to the description above. This route is in the latest edition of the guidebook.

I enjoyed JGL up to the point that I had to clip the bolt above the roof. Either I didn't follow the first ascentionist's path or that bolt is in a funky location.

Chad Apr 27, 2016

[Hide Comment] After talking to some locals it sounds like maybe a hold broke in the lower crux, making it easier. Not sure, and please correct me if I'm wrong. Either way, it felt comparable to Moons of Pluto or Headless Horseman, both 10d. Whatever you call it, it's a seriously fun route with far less grease than Magic Light, Zebra direct, etc. Don't bother climbing the 3 bolts that are above the initial anchor. Sketchy hangers, Worse rock, tedious moves, and an uninspiring anchor await. May 7, 2016

[Hide Comment] Anchor has been replaced and is fairly new. It's 5.10a nubbins for the last three bolts. The crux IMO is actually getting to the roof. It's delicate and technical. Then getting past the roof is pumpy albeit not as technical, and clipping at the roof is from a good hold.

If we rate everything according to the easiest route in the park of that grade, then this would be a 10d. Which is ridiculous. Anywhere else this is an 11b. So we split the diff and go with an 11a. This is about the same difficulty as Magic Light (11a) and that grade seems to have stuck for decades. Nov 14, 2016

[Hide Comment] Protection notes:
Easy start to the first bolt, no stick clip needed. Also easy getting to the 2nd bolt which is good since there's a big boulder in front of the route. Route is protected well based on where the difficult moves are and insofar as bolt spacing. Several of the bolt hangers are loose causing them to naturally fall at unusual angles. I found myself re-orienting them before hanging the draws and then they'd move again causing a few of the draws to twist more than usual. In hindsight it doesn't seem unsafe, but did create some pause while climbing.

Beta notes:
Some of the holds below the roof are really caked with chalk and have been run down. It was really hard holding onto them. I found 2 cruxes. The first crux for me was just after the 4th bolt bumping from a semi-good right hand crimp to a sidepull while the left hand is on an undesirable hold, then a choice of two undesirable left hands to move toward the jug. The foot rail is nice, but for shorties it requires precision positioning and possibly an extra foot bump to reach the jug. The second crux was after the 6th bolt. It looks like 2 1/2 to 3 feet of no hand holds on a slightly slabby face. The left is blank except for one rounded bump. The right has an open palm hold and a tiny poor crimper slot. Team up friction with dynamic movement and you're golden. The slot/rail under the roof feels really nice. Pulling the roof felt akin to working the moves to get over the lip at the indoor gym. It is a little pumpy but it’s short. The hand holds are bigger and more grippy, and it's still balancey for feet, but after you get your feet up, you're solid. The popcorn textured rock turns into chicken heads. The 5.9+ climbing at the top feels like a welcoming finish to home plate. Sep 17, 2019

[Hide Comment] This climb has glue in bolts now so no weirdly oriented hangers. The second bolt is kind of far off the bolt line and is really easy to back clean when you get to the third to prevent rope drag. Oct 27, 2022