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Clutching at Straws
5.7+ R,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
FA: unknown
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Altered States Gully
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Another dihedral with poor protection. This one works right around a roof section, then continues up to the anchor via a dirty and grassy crack.
Location
This is like 2 dihedrals past Slip Slidin', or the dihedral south of the route that underclings past a roof (Thoroughflare).
Protection
Minimal gear again, with brass being integral. The first half of the route is tricky at best for the gear, the second half gets better. A #2 Camalot seemed to be my first good piece. The anchor consists of a bolt/bush anchor. Bring bail slings in case.
[Hide Photo] W/o the lines, Sorry about the trees, I forgot my axe.
[Hide Photo] 1) Angel's Ladder 2) Slip Slidin' 3) Clutching at Straws 4) Thoroughflare 5) Discrete Feat
Around Boulder, CO
Smog Lake City, UT