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Routes in South Face Lower Buttress

Dedicated To The Game T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Down and Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flight 714 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lakota S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Creatures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not-so Pro T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Diet Coke for Fat Juice S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tintin Does Doughnuts S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Warm Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Warm Up Too T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Carl Coy and Keith Pike '85
Page Views: 205 total, 1/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Apr 29, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

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4 Opinions

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

By far, my FAVORITE route on the Buttress. I remember Carl telling me how much work it was bagging the first ascent. The route actually gets it's name for the pesky wasps that liked to hang out. For that reason, it might be a wise idea to rap the route first before you attempt the lead.

Start on a large, somewhat detached block climbing the large crack and face to it's top. Step left onto the main wall and work your way up to a small roof. A CLASSIC move will allow you to pull the roof and lead you up to a hands down rest. For me, the crux is negotiating the face back right to the corner. A two bolt anchor awaits.

Location

Right and down the slope from Lakota about 100 feet. This route is sometimes confused with Little Fingers.

Protection

RP's, BD Stoppers and a set of BD Camalots to #4. LONG RUNNERS are a MUST!

Photos

Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
A good route, but the climbing is a little heads up because of loose rock and sometimes small gear. I would recommend being solid at the grade. It's also a little hard to tell where to traverse left, but you are aiming for traversing just above a little roof and into the shallow right facing dihedral (NOT the big left facing dihedral straight above). See picture for more info. Anchor is not the best.
Aug 13, 2016
Long pitch, I ran out of runners with 80' to go. Don't forget some small wires/rps. Good climbing, often big holds and lots of stances. Some lose rock. Anchor is 2 bolts reduced down to one smash link (never understood this practice, why have 2 bolts with only one link?) We left 2 junky biners, maybe they will be there for you or you may choose to leaves some. May 26, 2014