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Routes in Training Wall

Grits S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Just Another Pretty Face Variation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
V-Max Traverse V7-8 7B
Type: Sport, 29 ft
FA: Gary Clark
Page Views: 86 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 28, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Another steep but short climb at El Rito, this is the most natural and easier way to climb to the anchors for Just Another Pretty Face. This variation is about 4' to the right of the original route, so they are very close together.

The crux is a move getting to the 2nd bolt. At the last bolt, step left, which will put you on the line you'd be climbing for Just Another Pretty Face. There's one last pumpy section before the chains.

The grade felt soft for even "El Rito 5.11" to me, but maybe it earns it if you stick strictly to the bolt line instead of following path of least resistance.

Location

Bolt line on the right on the south face of the block.

Protection

3 bolts to shared anchor

Photos

J J
Edgewood, NM
J J   Edgewood, NM
Good footwork and movement can soften up this route (though the holds are big enough to brute force it just as fun). There are more than enough feet around the second bolt 'crux' that even shorter people will have no issues; One in our group is about 5"3' and she had no problems landing the move. Don't avoid the route because of the reach. Nov 14, 2010
ZachS00
Denver, CO
ZachS00   Denver, CO
On the right, just past the second bolt, is a very loose ball-shaped jug. Use caution. Mar 20, 2009