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Missing Arch

5.10a/b PG13, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
S Dakota > Custer SP > Sylvan Lake > Outlets > Chillbain

Description

Very bouldery start to achieve the first bolt. After making the clip, move up to find a "hidden" bolt. You may want to use a long runner for this clip. Move up and right, hand traverse and mantle to a welcome hands down rest. From here, climb straight up the crack to the anchors.

It is also possible to scramble up the back side to top rope this route and a couple .9 variations.

Protection

4 bolts and #2 and #3 BD Camalots.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] Bring a set of nuts, and a few small to med cams to help protect this guy. A blue alien can be placed to protect the clipping of the first bolt. I like how you can't see some of the bolts until you are eye to eye with them. Jul 10, 2006
Steve Mestdagh
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] You can wiggle in some small at the bottom so I don't know I'd call it PG13. Definitely awkward & pump to get going though. The technical crux after the traverse is very well protected ... luckily. Aug 21, 2007
Dave Rone
Custer, SD
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] FYI, summit anchors are not equipped for rappel. Good route, interesting movement. Aug 31, 2021