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Wasp Mentality

5.11c, Sport,  Avg: 2.9 from 108 votes
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Minnesota > Red Wing (a.k.a… > Cyclops Area

Description

A pretty great climb that has a couple surprisingly difficult moves. You can make it a little easier by climbing pretty far right, there is a big edge over there that you can reach the bolt way far left from about 15 feet up, but it's more fun and a little more difficult to try to go straight up. After you nail the crux by snagging the huge flake undercling halfway up it's basically over. A worthy climb-- at least as classic as Annadonia, which gets a lot more traffic.

Be sure to bring your beekeeper's suit and a can of RAID.

Location

From the top of the approach trail, take the left where the trail forks. The furthest left bolted wall is the Cyclops area. This climb starts a few feet left of Cooler Crack, next to the tree, climb the line of bolts to the anchor below the birch tree.

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Noah Carlson looking strong
[Hide Photo] Noah Carlson looking strong
Ben doing Ben things, probably bleeding
[Hide Photo] Ben doing Ben things, probably bleeding
On route
[Hide Photo] On route
Noah on route
[Hide Photo] Noah on route
Sadie on the presend go!
[Hide Photo] Sadie on the presend go!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ian Harmon
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] A fun route. The rock is very sharp and the climbing is fairly sustained. Mind the wasps in the namesake bomber undercling about halfway up. The route eases up a bit after either being stung by or avoid the wasps. May 19, 2006
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Best to do in the spring or late late fall (post-freeze). Not often done, but very fun. Mar 25, 2007
jaysquared
Minneapolis, MN
 
[Hide Comment] The huge flake undercling sounds quite hollow and is surrounded by a lot of soft rock. I rained small rocks on my belayer while lowering just from my feet touching the wall. Tread carefully. Mar 2, 2020
Colin Downer Carlson
Denver, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] not sure if you all are doing different beta but this feels 12a for sure harder then cyclops. maybe some rock fell off? Mar 9, 2020
Adam Bibeau
  5.11d