Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Rich Strang
Page Views: 1,079 total · 7/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Apr 26, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Hard to get to the first couple of bolts and then harder to stay on the arete. It's easy to step around to the right slab and rest, but a better route if you stick to the arete.

Location

Furthest right route on the Big Pine Wall.

Protection

5 bolts to chains

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
The guides suggest this is 10c if you stay off the right side of the arete. A lot of the best holds in the upper half, and the last bolt, are basically on the arete itself, and it's pretty tempting to reach around the corner farther. It's super contrived and significantly harder than 10c in my opinion if you force yourself to stay left, and avoid all the possibly-cheating arete holds.

Obviously if you step around the arete to the slab on its right, you can get no-hands rests, which reduces the route to 5.9, and might be cheating.

I'd recommend climbing and having fun and not worrying about rules like this. Apr 4, 2010
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
Yeah just have fun climbing it the way you feel like. I bolted this one when I was one my arete climbing kick (Procrastination, Grid Lock & Apple Cobbler) They all have a certain "cheating" feel if you go around the corner - too bad it worked out that way but WTH Sep 27, 2011