PRINT: Rock Climb BYOB, El Rito

BYOB

5.12c, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 12 votes
FA: Ed Strang
New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Beer Block

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning Details

Season Raptor Nesting
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.

Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554

Description

Easier climbing on small holds leads up through the bottom section of the route. Crux is up high and involves a long move to a 2 finger pocket off of an edge, though there are other holds around for those with wee fingers.

Location

The second route from the left on the North side of the Beer Block (to the right of Tecate Two-Step)

Protection

4 bolts to anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bringing his own, Heath goes for it early in the route. August 2011.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO

5.12+

This thing is not 5.13. Nov 17, 2006

Aimee McRae
Bend

For sure! When I posted these climbs I hadn't been on a lot of them, I just took the info from a guide, which was obviously wrong on a lot of accounts. Nice route though. May 16, 2008

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX

5.12+

Wrong as in not the right thing to do? or just incorrect?

Easier climbing leads up through the bottom section of the route. Crux is up high and involves a long move to a 2 finger pocket off of an edge, though there are other holds around for those with wee fingers. Feb 18, 2009

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

5.12c

Nice to have a long draw on the 4th bolt. I thought the crux was getting between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Jun 1, 2009

WAGbag
Denver, CO

5.12

Looks like lots of chalk heading toward the anchors of Tecate after the last bolt (and one person I know stating they went that way) for an easier finish, putting the crux in between 3 and 4. Correct anchor is right putting the crux after the last bolt. Certainly not 13, not 12+, more like 12. Despite all the oddities I had a great time on it! Aug 2, 2009

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

5.12c

I finished on the anchor's of Tecate thinking that was the correct anchor since that's what it says in Taos Rock. It certainly looked harder finishing straight up as there was no chalk or obvious holds.

Lee's description of "a long move to a 2 finger pocket off an edge" matches perfectly with what I did finishing on the Tecate anchors though. Aug 11, 2009

Jeffrey Hyman
Santa Fe, New Mexico

5.12

Figured out a finish to go up and right. It's powerful, but it's all there. Apr 4, 2015

Frank Stein
Picayune, MS

5.12c/d

Clipping the last bolt seems to be THE crux for me. Fun. May 22, 2016

Aimee McRae
Bend

Anyone ever consider giving this climb it's own anchor? Aug 24, 2018

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM

5.12c

Kind of a goofy and squeezed route, in my opinion, though it has some neat moves and holds. I finished it to the To Beer anchor to the right, perhaps it's more interesting or better if you go to the Tecate anchor? (not that I would know). May 13, 2023