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Kor's Korner

5.12a/b, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.3 from 11 votes
FA: Herby Hendricks. FFA P1: Leonard Coyne, 1979, FFA P2: Richard Aschert, 1985
Colorado > Colorado Springs > Garden of the Gods > S Gateway Rock > W Side
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023 DetailsDrop down

Description

P1 .12a/b Start by climbing up to the chimney of Sandman, then begin to traverse to the right to a piton, clip a LONG runner to prevent rope drag. Turn the corner and work your way to the crack that goes up the spire. This face climbing is the crux and is protected by drilled pins. Work your way up the beautiful crack passing a couple of pins higher to the belay. Stoppers and #1-#2 Friends protect the crack nicely.

P2 .11a, Climb the face above following the pins, then traverse to the right to gain a flake then clip the last pin and on to the top.

Rap with 2 ropes from the anchor.

Location

Start about 60 feet to the left of West Point Crack.

Protection

Medium & large stoppers, a few cams 0.75-2.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris Barlow on the "Korner".
[Hide Photo] Chris Barlow on the "Korner".
Richard leading Kor's Korner circa 1986.
[Hide Photo] Richard leading Kor's Korner circa 1986.
Chris Barlow smooths through the crux.
[Hide Photo] Chris Barlow smooths through the crux.
Kevin Brandford, route setter extraordinaire, in a rare day of trad climbing, late '90s.
[Hide Photo] Kevin Brandford, route setter extraordinaire, in a rare day of trad climbing, late '90s.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
[Hide Comment] Kor actually didn't climb this. He's perplexed as anyone why it bares his name. Sep 22, 2010
Logan Berndt
Colorado Springs
 
[Hide Comment] Excellent and exposed aid line! Oct 27, 2011
JD Merritt
Eugene, OR
[Hide Comment] As for the gear, I think the poster means 0.75-2 INCHES, not in terms of Camalot size. Most of the crack is fingers size with pin scars. Aug 4, 2015
ejesse Jesse
Colorado Springs
 
[Hide Comment] Gear: nothing bigger than purple BD #0.5s at the top. In the business, it's grey, yellow, and green Aliens. I would recommend two of each so you are not wanting. You could place a blue, but I doubt it could hold a fall as the rock is soft. Prepare to be flummoxed by the ever daunting decision when climbing pin scars - do you want gear or handholds. Medium nuts would probably work brilliantly if you can hangout long enough to place them.

Also, you can prevent rope drag by back cleaning the first piton once you have clipped the second, or second and third. Oct 11, 2015
Noah McKelvin
Nomad
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Extremely good but very burly for the grade. Four stars! Really fun to figure out. Offset cams, a 0.4, 0.5, and a couple medium nuts is about all you need. Mar 24, 2019