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Routes in Pirate's Wall

Blackbeard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Booty (aka Long John) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clast Away S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobbles and Crossbones S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oxymorons S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirated S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirates of the Carabiner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scurvy Dog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shiver Me Cobbles S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terror on the High [Eleven] Sea S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trick or Treat? S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 88 ft
FA: Merlin Larsen and Jay Foley, 2000
Page Views: 2,653 total, 19/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Excellent, and long route. Start is moderate, easing up through the middle, with the crux at the top where the route starts to get steeper.

Because of the length of this route, a 60m rope is necessary, or the belayer must be atop the boulders at the base (can anchor to the ponderosa).

NOTE: This climb was incorrectly called Long John in the online El Rito guide, as Gary C. didn't know the FA info (see comment from FA below).

Location

The route that is the furthest right on the crag, just right of Blackbeard.

Protection

12 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Mike Howard    
 
Thanks Andrew,
Great points and we had those very thoughts that day. There is obviously more work to do for those willing to lend a hand. That technique with the chain into a drilled groove had been widely used in the past and shows just how far the sport has come. The grooving lessens much of the "cantilever effect" and translates to mostly a downward pull (shear). Those rawls seemed solid but the weakness surely seems to be the forces upward on the bolt head and washer. I know of no testing data on this sort of set up. Come help us replace 'em.

Mike Oct 20, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11b
Thanks for the suggestions Mike. I hope I can get up there in a couple weeks for a day or two. I've not removed a smash link before so it's good to have advance warning about those. Oct 10, 2008
Mike Howard    
 
Jason,

Do take a look at any of the anchors which use the snap links. Wear on those from lowering off (and perhaps some errant top-roping) makes those things a time bomb. Please consider Cobble Wobble and any of the other popular routes. You'll need something to pry/pound apart the smash links. Jay used a knife blade and a lost arrow to open the link from the side enough to wind off the chain. Thanks ARI.

Mike Oct 8, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Sanadine Dream would be a great route if it got a good retrobolt. Oct 6, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11b
Thanks for the update, Mike, and thanks to Jay and Sal for the work on the replacement! I have a number of anchor sets from the ARI that are looking for a installation place and El Rito seems like a great place to put 'em. I know the anchor on top of "Jug or Naut" sucks so that's a candidate too. Other suggestions anyone? (Now if I could just find the time...) Oct 6, 2008
Mike Howard    
 
Jay Foley replaced the anchor today with NM Crag donated hardware (Fixe stainless sport anchor) that should last for years if we only use it for lowering. Look at the wear on the hardware grade snap links in the photo (I think the best of these rate at 550 lbs = 2.5kN. They are for light duty use and NOT for overhead lifting).

Help me out here, but I believe top roping forces can exceed 5 kN. Worn snap links are weaker still. There are more of these to replace (Cobble Wobble could use some love). And those smash links are a bear to remove BTW. Thanks Jay and Sal.




Oct 4, 2008
Jfoley  
Merlin Larsen and I put this route up in 2000.We named it Booty...not sure why it is now called long john Jun 10, 2008
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
First half is sustained 10b. The top half is steeper and sustained 11b. Oct 8, 2006