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Routes in M Crags

Commitment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cumbria T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear Not T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Giraffe, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haste Not T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Jack Russell Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lance-a-Lot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mellow Yellow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runout Ridge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter, March 19 2006
Page Views: 1,166 total, 8/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A Classic .Hike to the top of the brown wave, then from a cairn scramble about 300' diagonally up to the right to a large bush. Here one can downclimb a small crack into the gully and gain the slab. The climb starts up an open ramp about 20' below the crack.

P1) A bolt will be seen at about 20' up to the left. Climb about 20' past a second bolt then straight up the dark dyke to another bolt at about 40'. From here, go slightly right to double anchors. 200' 5.9+ R.

P2) From the belay, move out right to a bolt, then past this to enter an obvious groove. Follow this to another bolt then to double anchors. 200' 5.9+ R.

P3) Easier climbing up the slab above into the large chasm. After a short chimney break out right up yellow rock to a natural spike belay. 200' 5.6 R.

Here one can move down to the right and find the rap anchor of The Giraffe (or carry on up the next 3 easy pitches of The Giraffe to the summit and register). Rap to the right to the anchors on top of P2 of Commitment, and then two raps to the ground.

Location

Located on the Eastern Reef Slabs on the Triple Buttress Area. Takes a line to the left of the route The Giraffe. Take the road that leads into Three Finger Canyon and park about a quarter mile before you reach the mouth of the canyon. Triple Buttress is directly ahead. One can follow a wash that starts to the right and eventually leads to the routes ... see photo.

Protection

4 Quickdraws,One #1 Camelot,One 3/4" friend.Two 60m ropes.

Photos

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