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Routes in Elysian Buttress

Elysian Buttress Original Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mechanical Persistence S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unemployment Line, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Stan Mish & Tomas Robison
Page Views: 1,116 total, 8/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Apr 20, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The Unemployment Line is another great sport line up the right hand section of the Elysian Buttress. A little more traffic on this line will clean up the route a little possibly making it worth three stars.

Pitch 1 (5.11a) - Climb a short ramp with optional trad gear (Yellow TCU and/or #2 Camalot) to a line of 10 bolts. Thin, sharp edges combine with fun foot work makes this pitch engaging and in your face from start to anchors. Finish on a small ledge at a two bolt rap anchor. (~100')

Pitch 2 (5.11+) - Awesome pitch smears, underclings, and crimps past 8 bolts to another two bolt rap anchor. (~80')

Pitch 3 (5.11) - Climb up over a bulge to a nice stance, then cut up and right past several additional bolts to the two bolt summit anchor. (~70')

Descent - Three single rope rappels from bolted anchors to the ground.

Location

During the approach aim for a large face on the righthand buttress. The Unemployment Line is 30' to the right of a shallow alcove. This alcove has a left leaning crack running out of the top.

Protection

12 Draws
Yellow TCU (Metolius) Optional
1 x #2 Camalot Optional
Expect to clip your first bolt at about 25' off the deck without the trad gear.

Photos

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Ryan Z
  5.11+
Ryan Z  
  5.11+
I do not think gear is necessary for the first pitch. Getting to the first bolt is easier than easy. I think all of the pitches are pretty close in grade all of them felt like 5.11 B/C . I had a wonderful time on this climb. Micro-flakes chipping off makes it very exciting. You will chip off a flake and you will fall on this climb. But it is bolted very well so there is nothing to worry about. definitely get on it, it will only get better and a little harder with traffic. Jul 18, 2014