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Routes in Big Pine Wall

Apple Cobbler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobble Sutra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobble Wobble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corn on the Cobble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Peach Cobbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pocket Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squeeze My Cobbles S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thimble (aka El Dorito), The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 2,030 total, 14/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Apr 20, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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38 Opinions

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Description

Very nice, and sustained route, with bolts in all the wrong places. After getting though the first bolt, either reach high from a jug way below the bolt or climb to a jug above the bolt and clip at your waist (ground fall potential). Sequency and sustained portion of moves through the third and fourth bolt and the crux is getting past the lip onto easier terrain above.

Location

In the center of the wall, just between two large boulders.

Protection

Six bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11d
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11d
I thought the bolt placement and spacing wasn't too troublesome. The first crux is the weird part, seemed best to climb to the jug, then clip low, rather than clip high off something small. I'd certainly climb it again, it's a pretty good climb. Jul 31, 2010
lance hadfield
tijeras
lance hadfield   tijeras
FA Lance Hadfield Jun 15, 2010
Yeah, the clip just past the first crux moves was a bitch. I couldn't get it from below, so did the waist-level method from the mid-climb jug. You're looking at a pretty big whipper from there, but not a ground fall. A great route on a great wall, excellent rock, excellent moves. May 16, 2006