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Whipper Wonderland

5.12a/b, Sport, 40 ft,  Avg: 2.6 from 26 votes
FA: Lance Hadfield
New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Beer Block

Description

Sequency problem beginning at around the second to last bolt, with a power move through "the wave" at the top, to a large jug just above the left anchor bolt. Clean fall as overhung as the rock is.

Location

Looking at the west facing side of beer block, the route is all the way over to the right. Not the severly overhung route (which is 5.13), but the one just to the left of that that is only mildly steep until you hit the top of the climb. Climb is #50 in the El Rito online guide.

Protection

4 bolts to bolt anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

last move
[Hide Photo] last move
Jeff approaches the crux near the top
[Hide Photo] Jeff approaches the crux near the top
Jeff starts up Whipper Wonderland
[Hide Photo] Jeff starts up Whipper Wonderland
James "liberating" yet another bail biner on Whipper Wonderland.
[Hide Photo] James "liberating" yet another bail biner on Whipper Wonderland.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Not so hard once you get the crux, but if you don't stick the dynamic move to the top, you're off to whipper wonderland. All air, big air. Don't you dare ask for beta. Feb 26, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Judging by wiggle action on that last bolt, it has definitely seen some action! It stopped my repeated falls so it's obviously still good enough. Jul 19, 2008
lance hadfield
tijeras
[Hide Comment] FA Lance Hadfield this route was graded 5.11d but it might be because I new were the holds were. is the bolt still good or does it need some love? Jun 15, 2010
[Hide Comment] Lance,
I don't think the bolt is an immediate danger but it is a spinner and I think repeated falls have chewed up the threads enough it will be very hard to tighten so replacement is probably in order at some point.

James Aug 9, 2010
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
[Hide Comment] I tried to onsight this, and took the big whip from the crux last move, and bashed up my heel, elbow, and head, thankfully not badly but bad enough to end my day. It seems like maybe I just took a weird fall, but before my next attempt, I'll try to get more specific beta, and I'll wear a helmet. This climb's kind of scary in my (wimpy) opinion. Mar 22, 2014
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
[Hide Comment] This climb is scary, George. It ain't that overhung! You're in for a literal whipping if your belayer doesn't give you a soft, but short, catch. May 13, 2014
dmPete
  5.12a/b PG13
[Hide Comment] This route tuned me up. I took a whip from the anchor jug and had a pendulum fall that put me back into the wall really hard just above 2nd bolt, facing away from the route. My fall sounds similar to the one George Perkins describes in his comment above (in terms of areas contacted by the rock), though I ended up at urgent care that evening for x-rays of my foot and have been hobbling around for over a week since. My belayer did his best to give me a soft catch, but the current location of that last bolt begs for this kind of fall if you're committing to the dyno.

I feel very lucky to have walked away from this fall without sustaining any more serious injuries, and very glad I was wearing a helmet, because I did end up using it on the wall. If I'd hit a little differently, or hadn't been wearing a helmet, it could have easily been an emergency situation.

With that said, the crux section of this route is wonderful, so if the location of that last bolt were ever moved to mitigate the pendulum effect of a whip at the chains, it would be something I'd get on again in a heartbeat! Sep 29, 2018