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Routes in Shipwreck Wall - East Face

Blue Light Special S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt From the Blue S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish N' Chips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flab Happy TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight of the Patriot Scud Blaster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Liquid Jade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Marooned S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
More Sandy than Kevin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mothers Milk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Purple Aces S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Riptide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rising Tides S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skipper's Little Buddy, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stoney Surfer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Walking While Intoxicated S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tom Heins, Tom Egan, February 1991
Page Views: 158 total, 1/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 17, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This short route has one committing hard sequence just after the second bolt, launching into tricky bulge moves from an undercling. After this, a much easier challenge gets you to the anchors. I've heard some climbers hate this route (and would probably give it a bomb). For myself, I think a one star minus or 1/2 star is fitting as I liked the challenge of the one hard sequence.

Location

Starts upslope from the second platform/landing on the trail up Shipwreck, just above the start for Purple Aces.

Protection

Bolts (aprox. 4) and Rap Anchors.

Photos

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CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
This thing isn't bad. It's just so short that it's hard to call it good. fun moves but it really is just a bolted boulder problem. Worth a burn at least once for sure. Mar 21, 2013
Odd that this is so bad, I thought it looked like a lot of fun. Thanks for the heads up. Feb 21, 2010