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Routes in Crag Full of Dynamite

Arch Stanton TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ecstacy of Gold, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fistful of Crystals TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For a Few Crystals More S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good, the Bad, and the Ugly, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
He Who Double-crosses Me... S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My Name's Nobody, Bub S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Once Upon a Climb in the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: O'Brien, Edwards (1992)
Page Views: 3,004 total, 21/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Apr 17, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

This route takes the tallest (and highest quality) line at the crag. The crux is pulling over a small roof with a bolt overhead.

Several bolts of sustained, delicate slab climbing (stay low on the slab and out of the gully for full value) give way to a truly difficult clip and then the steep crux. One more bolt leads to the anchors.

If you manage to clip the seventh bolt, the crux is extremely well protected.

All in all a very memorable route!

Protection

8 bolts. 2 open shuts
OlgaMP
Studio City, CA
OlgaMP   Studio City, CA
As I started to lead this route yesterday a huge chunk of rock about 7 inches long and about 1 inch thick broke right off the wall. Thankfully the piece was heavy enough to fall down to the ground and not bounce off and hit my belayer... Totally freaked me out to start a lead this way, but the route is fun. It looks like this particular area doesn't get a lot of use, so there is a lot of dirt on the rock wall, but still good enough friction. I would put protection under each crack (with extended sling to avoid rope drag) before going over each roof (small and big roofs), just to avoid a bad swing in case you were to fall. Small roof can take small .5 friend with a small sling (do pull on it to check it, because there is a lot of loose rock up there) and the second roof can take a 1 to 3 inch cam (since the crack has different sizes) with a good long 4 or 5 foot sling. I don't think a fall would be too bad, but combined with a swing and the possibility of great holds popping off, it increases the chance of doing some serious damage. Putting some extra protection can minimize that. Sep 23, 2013
One of the open shuts now spins, but there is now a Mussy hook to supplement the open shuts. Feb 3, 2013
Ima Fred Knot
Victoria, Seychelles
Ima Fred Knot   Victoria, Seychelles
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
First time leading it, had supplemental gear and still had an uncomfortable awkward clip.
Yesterday, no gear, hoping that would force me to reach up and clip before it got awkward - nope. Funky to figure out the good stance on lead (done it on TR - it involves a heel hook to make the clip way more comfy, just can't replicate that on lead).

Nice varied line, though. Jul 16, 2012
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Last weekend, I saw somebody fall trying to reach the 7th clip--BIG, thought-provoking fall onto the slab below. Luckily, he was okay.

I like to think of this route as having 5.9 climbing but a 5.10 clip. Apr 24, 2011
0.5 Camalot or equivalent sized TCU before the awkward clip. With a long sling on it, though, it isnt much higher than the previous bolt (2' maybe). I'd probably forego the extra pro next time. Mar 18, 2011
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Best route at the crag. Good flick, too. May 7, 2006
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
I have actually gotten into the practice of placing a 3/4" piece of gear before attempting to clip the seventh bolt. The clip is super awkward--blowing the clip without the additional protection would be very bad. In some cases, I have subsequently back-cleaned the piece to avoid any rope drag. Apr 18, 2006