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Routes in (r) Pleasure Palace

Aggro Bumbly S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bop Till You Drop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Wicked Thing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Matthew 7:24 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Scare S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sea of Green S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watermark S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
We Be Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xanadu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tom Heins, 1990
Page Views: 921 total, 6/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 17, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

This route is a one-sequence wonder that could be considered a bolted boulder problem. Easy moves lead to a tricky sequence pulling around a bulge on big holds. After this, easy arete moves lead to an anchor. Enjoyable moves but the brief difficulties are all over 1/3rd of the way up.

Location

Middle of Upper Pleasure Palace Wall, just left of Bop Till You Drop.

Protection

five bolts, and the anchor at the top is hangers only (no rings or chains).

Photos

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Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
Worth doing for the moves through the 3rd bolt!

All five bolts currently have hangers, but the anchor is hangers-only, no rings or chains. There's supposedly a walk-off to climber's left, but rappelling from the Aggro Bumbly anchors is easy and safe.

It's true that the anchor is a long way from the last bolt; just keep going up :-) Jul 16, 2017
Second to last bolt is still missing, and the anchor(no chains) is really far back from the edge. Even a double length sling attached to both bolts wasn't long enough. Feb 17, 2016
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
 
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
 
I also recommend walking off; there's an easy scramble back down close to the right (facing the wall from the bottom, so to the left facing back down after topping out). We added a second rapid link, but there are still no chains, and the rope drag will be crazy no matter what is done. Apr 27, 2015
As of 3/26/15, last bolt still has no hanger.

Rope drag was immense. If I ever climb it again, I'll bring my street shoes & walk off from the anchor.

The boulder crank is fun but the scramble above is pointless. This route ought to end with an anchor at the 4th bolt. Mar 28, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9-
This route is a bomb. Huge holds last for three moves through an overhang. Romp up a loose, 4th-class arete to the top, where anchors bolted to the level rock at the top do not have chains and cannot facilitate lowering or rappelling. My partner (a girl) and I both agreed that this route goes at 5.9 at most... if you are desperate enough to do it. Aug 22, 2014
Fun route, though the crux (boulder-y, within the first few bolts), could be a little spicy if one were to fall whilst/prior to cranking over the vertical section onto the slab finish. Also, as of late June of 2013, the last bolt hanger (prior to the hangers at the top/finish) is missing, which means it is "run out" at the top. However, the last 2/3 of this climb is essentially 5.6 slab, so the missing hanger is not that big of a deal. Jul 29, 2013