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Routes in Center/Headwall

Being and Nothingness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0+
Black Castle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Center Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Commander, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Diamond of San Diego S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Halcyon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Napoleon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right as Rain T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sole Purpose S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spitfire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Swiftness Direct T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swiftness, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tears of Envy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walter Cat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Randy Leavitt & Friends
Page Views: 880 total, 6/month
Shared By: Graham Roff on Apr 17, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This is one of the few routes up El Cap wall that goes mostly on natural protection. Four or five pitches take you all the way to the top.

P1 (5.10) - Start in a wide, dirty, burned out crack for 60 ft. Continue up the low angle, rubble strewn area with loose rock to a large ledge. Yep, the first pitch sucks. You can skip this by climbing the first pitch of Supply Line, slightly to the right.
P2 (5.6, listed as P3 in the guide) - From the middle of the big ledge climb easy terrain past 5 bolts and a few gear placements to the anchor more or less directly above.
P3 (5.10 PG13, P4 in the guide) - This is the crux pitch. Traverse slightly to the left from the belay, clipping one bolt before heading up the crack past another bolt. Continue up the arete placing gear where possible (PG13). At the large roof head up and left and belay either at the rap anchors in the face or continue up and left a little further to the large ledge (gear anchor).
P4 (5.8 PG13, P5 in the guide) - From the large ledge climb through the tree straight up the offwidth, unprotected, wet crack past a solitary bolt. Pull over the roof to the right and wander upwards until the top.

Location

From the top it is four rappels down to the bottom following a number of possible rappel lines.

Protection

The protection is good on the first and second pitches (second pitch also has 5 bolts). The third pitch has a few bolts and protects somewhat poorly with small cams, PG13.
The last pitch has one bolt through the offwidth section, and abundant gear if necessary through the much easier section to the top.

Photos

One of the first climbs I ever did back in the day to be given this number. Ironically my partner and I were stormed off pitch 4, five different times ,over three seasons before we finally did it in 100 degree temps. It is this process that makes the number less important and the spirit of adventure everything!
Definitely worth the effort!!! Feb 13, 2014
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
What's cool about this route is that it offers a different experience than the rest of the mountain. It's pretty cool to get so high up on mostly gear. It has a little route finding and a little intimidation. I found the moves on 3 of the pitches to be very engaging. The whole experience is much more memorable than just another sport route. Dec 4, 2013
Adam Kimmerly
  5.10b PG13
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10b PG13
Not worth the effort. P3 has some fun climbing, but the other pitches suck. There are plenty of good routes in the area and this isn't one of them. Jan 17, 2007