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I'd Rather Leia than Jabba
5.11d,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.4 from 15
votes
FA: Gus Glitch
Colorado
> San Luis Valley
> Penitente Canyon
> Penitente - Inner Canyon
Access Issue: Limited access Oct. 15-17, 2021
Details
Per
Wes O'Rourke: there will be limited access October 15th-17th. The first annual
True Penitence Climbing Festival will take place
October 15th-17th, 2021. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 15th and 16th.
Participation in all festival events will require registration for the festival. The canyon will still be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available on site and parking will be restricted. Also, the climbing competition on Saturday the 16th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using most of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate.
Description
Climb a series of thin cracks, then small pockets up the grey slab. It's unclear if the wide crack is to be avoided at the top or not, but it's certainly harder if you do.
This route has some nice, but sharp pockets; it's a good one to practice that footwork on.
Location
Just past The Virgin, look for a leaning dihedral with a clean fist crack in the back. The route is immediately left of the crack.
Protection
Bolts.
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Golden, CO
Lander, WY