Crack 5
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.00448, -116.05887 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,966 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Darshan Ahluwalia on Apr 16, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Great, splitter route! Rated 5.9+ in the Vogel Joshua Tree guide but so straight forward that 5.9 is more apt if you've wired your handjamming technique. Towards the top the crack forks: continue up the left side for more of the same handjamming (5.9, Crack 5) or go right for a steep fingers section (Crack 5-1/2). Take the right fork for an exciting, pumpy finish (highly recommended)!
Location
This splitter crack is located in Isles Corridor. Approach the Isles in the Sky crag by scrambling up third and fourth class slab. On the ledge where Bird of Fire is, keep walking left around the wall past Dolphin and Nectar. Scramble up and over the slab on your right to find Isles Corridor. Immediately on your left is a 5.2 crack up the slab, which can be used as a descent from the formation. Alternatively, rap or lower from the slung rock above the routes.
Crack 5 is the Y-shaped crack to the right of Crack 4. Heading left at the fork (Crack 5) continues the 5.9 hands, while heading right (Crack 5-1/2) is steeper fingers.



10 Comments