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Routes in Isles Corridor - Left Side

Crack 2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack 5 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack 6 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack 4 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Descent Crack T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dreamworld T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Free Electric T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grounder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heavy Mettle T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 693 total, 5/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb ascends small face holds and a sustained left-leaning finger crack. The first 15ft of the climb ascends two sloping shelves. Using crimpers, mantle on to the first shelf and grab the second shelf. From this stance you can place your first pieces of protection. Mantle onto the second shelf to get into the thin crack. The crux is probably the first few moves on the crack. It continues to widen to tight-hands size at the very top and is sustained the whole way. Wish it were longer!

Location

This splitter crack is located in Isles Corridor. Approach the Isles in the Sky crag by scrambling up third and fourth class slab. On the ledge where Bird of Fire is, keep walking left around the wall past Dolphin and Nectar. Scramble up and over the slab on your right to find Isles Corridor. Immediately on your left is a 5.2 crack up the slab, which can be used as a descent from the formation. Alternatively, rap or lower from the slung rock above the routes.

Crack #4 is the thin left-leaning crack on the left, between Grounder and Crack #5.

Protection

The first available protection is 15 or 20 feet off the deck. The face moves before the crack are difficult and committing and a fall here would surely result in injury. The first pieces of protection are small but bomber nuts (black and purple Black Diamond). The crux is probably the first few moves on the crack so make sure to place a couple of nuts before attempting it. Take small nuts and small cams (Aliens helpful) up to black Metolius (tight hands).

Photos

I can't believe some of the above posters called this is a bomb. I do agree with Randy that this is as good as any of the other quality cracks in the corridor though. A TR only for me - I don't trust that tiny fixed head protecting the crux. The upper finger crack/lieback is a treat! Would be a bold lead indeed..

As for the crashpad comment - not exactly a good landing. Big boulders, and the wall slabs out towards the base. I would get a good laugh seeing pads and a team of spotters up there for the lead. Fixed pins are replaced with bolts all the time in Jtree - why not for a manky head? Nov 19, 2012
Randy
  5.10b/c R
Randy  
  5.10b/c R
Easily as good as Crack 5 and Crack 6. The unprotected part of the route is 5.10, so it leaves this as a TR or bold lead. Oct 14, 2012
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Thumbs down on a Bolt....

Thumbs up on fresh head?

Two thumbs up on a crashpad! Jan 22, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.10b PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b PG13
Instead of a bolt how about using a crashpad since the crux is low or simply rig a toprope if not into leading it as is? Jan 22, 2009
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
 
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
 
this route could use a bolt, there are a tough couple of moves before the crack. But I dont know if it would be worth it. Jan 22, 2009
Would this route benefit from the addition of a bolt? Feb 19, 2008
Ian
Boulder, CO
 
Ian   Boulder, CO
 
I almost fell on the copper head after a hold broke on me. The crack is good, but the pro sucks before that! Feb 19, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a/b R
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a/b R
Easy to top rope from rap slings. Wouldn't recommend leading it. Old copperhead down low that would likely not take any real load or fall. The seam takes no gear. Higher the crack does open to 3/4" to 1.5" good finger and lie back but not worth the trouble. Go around the front and do Bird on a Wire instead. Oct 28, 2006