Type: Trad
FA: Ron Anderson and Jim Arnold, 1990
Page Views: 1,139 total · 7/month
Shared By: Scott "Scoboni" on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Justin .

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

To get to this excellent face climb consisting of small cracks and finger holds, you must climb either Wild Women of the Planet Playtex or Red Beard. Look for the bolts on the right side of Red Beard's crack. Start below the first bolt and end at the small ledge at the top of the face. there are two 5.10b moves. The first is just past the second bolt and the second is at the fourth bolt. Use the two chains at the end to top rope or rap off. You can also follow the 5.6 crack and blocks to the top. Protecting there is sketchy, as you're at the top of the butte where the dirt meets the rock.

Location

Route 3 in the photos.

Protection

Depending on how you get to there. If climbing Wild Women and you're planning to rap off, quick draws and a long sling to prevent rope drag after Wild Women's fourth bolt are all that are needed.

If you're climbing Red Beard or planning on climbing to the top after completing Grip Master carry pro to 1 1/2 inches.

Photos

Ron Anderson
  5.10c
Ron Anderson  
  5.10c
first ascent, Ron Anderson, Jim Arnold 1990, Ron...


also note, Dano and I replaced all the biners on the anchors there once, but sadly they were all taken...We had spent a full weekend going around "sprucing" up anchors on all our local routes. Mar 21, 2009
Ron Anderson
  5.10c
Ron Anderson  
  5.10c
if you do WW to GM, use a long sling on the last bolt of Wild women and a semi long one on the first bolt of grip master, youll slide nicely. Jun 18, 2011
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
  5.10a
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
  5.10a
Fun continuation of the slab climbing on WWOPP, but the bolts are in strange locations and don't seem to follow the natural line. watch for broken and loose rock the horizontal break before the steeper moves at the top and bring a 1.5-2" cam or tricam to protect those steep moves at the Horizontal. Feb 27, 2012
RDA
RDA  
Left handed by chance? lol!;-) Jun 6, 2013
BruceB
Reno, NV
 
BruceB   Reno, NV
 
Fun. Slopey small friction holds for hands and feet. The 10b line goes to the right of the bolts. Have Tr'd it and gone left of the bolts, that's more 10+. Mussey hooks on chains. Nov 15, 2015