Type: Trad, 83 ft (25 m)
FA: Ron Anderson and Jim Arnold, 1990
Page Views: 1,729 total · 9/month
Shared By: Scott "Scoboni" on Apr 16, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Lurker -, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

To get to this excellent face climb consisting of small cracks and finger holds, you must climb either Wild Women of the Planet Playtex or Red Beard. Look for the bolts on the right side of Red Beard's crack. Start below the first bolt and end at the small ledge at the top of the face. there are two 5.10b moves. The first is just past the second bolt and the second is at the fourth bolt. Use the two chains at the end to top rope or rap off. You can also follow the 5.6 crack and blocks to the top. Protecting there is sketchy, as you're at the top of the butte where the dirt meets the rock.

Location

Route 3 in the photos.

Protection

Depending on how you get to there. If climbing Wild Women and you're planning to rap off, quick draws and a long sling to prevent rope drag after Wild Women's fourth bolt are all that are needed.

If you're climbing Red Beard or planning on climbing to the top after completing Grip Master carry pro to 1 1/2 inches.

Photos