Avg: 2.6 from 10 votes
Routes in Iron Butte
|Au-Natural T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Baboon Safari T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Beholders Eye T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Binkys Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Eagles Nest Dihederal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Grip Master T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hanz Solo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Local Crow-Motion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Locally Owned S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|NYX S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|No-Stick-Um T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Red Beard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Rolling Crow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Spudz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wild Women of the Planet Playtex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|FA:||Ron Anderson and Jim Arnold, 1990|
|Page Views:||1,074 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Scott "Scoboni" Powell on Apr 16, 2006|
DescriptionTo get to this excellent face climb consisting of small cracks and finger holds, you must climb either Wild Women of the Planet Playtex or Red Beard. Look for the bolts on the right side of Red Beard's crack. Start below the first bolt and end at the small ledge at the top of the face. there are two 5.10b moves. The first is just past the second bolt and the second is at the fourth bolt. Use the two chains at the end to top rope or rap off. You can also follow the 5.6 crack and blocks to the top. Protecting there is sketchy, as you're at the top of the butte where the dirt meets the rock.
ProtectionDepending on how you get to there. If climbing Wild Women and you're planning to rap off, quick draws and a long sling to prevent rope drag after Wild Women's fourth bolt are all that are needed.
If you're climbing Red Beard or planning on climbing to the top after completing Grip Master carry pro to 1 1/2 inches.