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Routes in Iron Butte

Au-Natural T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baboon Safari T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beholders Eye T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Binkys Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagles Nest Dihederal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grip Master T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hanz Solo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Local Crow-Motion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Locally Owned S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
NYX S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No-Stick-Um T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Beard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rolling Crow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spudz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Women of the Planet Playtex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: Ron Anderson and Jim Arnold, 1990
Page Views: 1,120 total · 8/month
Shared By: Scott "Scoboni" Powell on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Description [Edit]

To get to this excellent face climb consisting of small cracks and finger holds, you must climb either Wild Women of the Planet Playtex or Red Beard. Look for the bolts on the right side of Red Beard's crack. Start below the first bolt and end at the small ledge at the top of the face. there are two 5.10b moves. The first is just past the second bolt and the second is at the fourth bolt. Use the two chains at the end to top rope or rap off. You can also follow the 5.6 crack and blocks to the top. Protecting there is sketchy, as you're at the top of the butte where the dirt meets the rock.

Location [Edit]

Route 3 in the photos.

Protection [Edit]

Depending on how you get to there. If climbing Wild Women and you're planning to rap off, quick draws and a long sling to prevent rope drag after Wild Women's fourth bolt are all that are needed.

If you're climbing Red Beard or planning on climbing to the top after completing Grip Master carry pro to 1 1/2 inches.


Ron Anderson
Ron Anderson  
first ascent, Ron Anderson, Jim Arnold 1990, Ron...

also note, Dano and I replaced all the biners on the anchors there once, but sadly they were all taken...We had spent a full weekend going around "sprucing" up anchors on all our local routes. Mar 21, 2009
Ron Anderson
Ron Anderson  
if you do WW to GM, use a long sling on the last bolt of Wild women and a semi long one on the first bolt of grip master, youll slide nicely. Jun 18, 2011
Patrick Mulligan
Patrick Mulligan  
Fun continuation of the slab climbing on WWOPP, but the bolts are in strange locations and don't seem to follow the natural line. watch for broken and loose rock the horizontal break before the steeper moves at the top and bring a 1.5-2" cam or tricam to protect those steep moves at the Horizontal. Feb 27, 2012
Left handed by chance? lol!;-) Jun 6, 2013
Reno, NV
BruceB   Reno, NV
Fun. Slopey small friction holds for hands and feet. The 10b line goes to the right of the bolts. Have Tr'd it and gone left of the bolts, that's more 10+. Mussey hooks on chains. Nov 15, 2015

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