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Routes in Iron Butte

Au-Natural T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baboon Safari T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beholders Eye T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Binkys Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagles Nest Dihederal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grip Master T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hanz Solo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Local Crow-Motion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Locally Owned S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
NYX S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No-Stick-Um T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Beard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rolling Crow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spudz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Women of the Planet Playtex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Steve Yasmer and Ron Andrson 1990
Page Views: 1,398 total, 10/month
Shared By: Scott "Scoboni" Powell on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A 5.9 face climb protected by four bolts for the first part. The crux is the first part of the climb. After the fourth bolt it gets easier. Carry pro for the last part which is 5.7. For a more interesting variation, go right after the fourth bolt and climb Grip Master.

Location

Route 1 in the photos. The most obvious landmark is the giant boulder on the slope below.

Protection

Four bolts protect the first part. Carry pro to two inches for the second.

Photos

Patrick Mulligan  
  5.9-
no fixed pin, but solid nut placement in its place. Fun route. Feb 27, 2012
Ron Anderson
  5.9
Ron Anderson  
  5.9
well CHIT!!!! that fixed pin gave the last bit some charachter...PISSES me off gear theft or altering established routes gets #1 treatement in my book..... Dec 31, 2009
The fixed pin is gone, but you can place a small nut, or a micro cam in the small crack just above where the fixed pin was located (according to Anderson's guide book.) There is still chains above the old fixed pin location to lower off. Jul 31, 2009
Ron Anderson
  5.9
Ron Anderson  
  5.9
there should be a chain anchor above the final bolt right after a fixed pin to lower from?? FA: Steve Yasmer Ron Andrson 1990... Ron Mar 21, 2009