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Heaven's Gate
5.11a,
Trad, Sport, 4 pitches,
Avg: 3.7 from 122
votes
FA: David Gunstone and Darryl Cramer
Washington
> Central-W Casca…
> Skykomish Valley
> Index
> Upper Town Wall
> (d) Dana's Arch Area
Description
This route is basically a 3 pitch extension to the first pitch of Lamplighter.
P1(5.10c). Lamplighter, it is a steep looking wide crack, with many good holds to supplement. After the chimney follow a crack system slightly right past a couple bolts. Don't belay at the first anchor you see! Keep heading right another 20 feet to another two bolt anchor. I thought this was the best pitch on the route.
P2(5.11a). Follow Bolts over the bulge directly above the belay to an edgy face.
P3(5.10+). More edging past many bolts.
P4(5.11a). Follow more bolts past two roofs to a final two bolt anchor at a nice ledge. The second roof holds the crux of the route in my opinion.
A 70 meter rope will get you through all of the rappels
Location
Left of Davis Holland, you will see two bulging offwidths off of the ground. Lamplighter is the right crack. Then follow the bolts.
Protection
15 or so draws, 70 meter rope, single rack to 3 inches for the first pitch.
Parties often leave their trad gear at the top of P1, and then recover it on rappel. (It is just dead weight for the next 3 pitches.)
![Photo of where the crux "horn" used to be. All you get now for hands is that little slot/jam on the left.]()
[Hide Photo] Photo of where the crux "horn" used to be. All you get now for hands is that little slot/jam on the left.
![Katie topping out]()
[Hide Photo] Katie topping out
![Moving the belay, pitch 1.5]()
[Hide Photo] Moving the belay, pitch 1.5
![Crux spot with "horn" intact (i.e., how it used to be when it was "10c").]()
[Hide Photo] Crux spot with "horn" intact (i.e., how it used to be when it was "10c").
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Dixfield, ME
Tacoma, WA
P1 (10c trad chimney with some bolts) can be awkward in places, but just when you think it's getting desperate, there are no hands rests.
P2 is a one move wonder (11a; pull the roof at the anchors then go long and right for the jug/rail). Very sporty/edgy (10) for the remainder of the pitch (thoroughly bolted).
P3 is shorter to the roofs. The angle eases up and is more relaxing version of the previous.
P4 is through the double roofs with the second roof definitely the crux of the route (harder than the roof at the start of P2).
If you only have a 60 meter rope, there is a decent way to rap off this route using both the Heaven's Gate and Golden Road Anchors:
-From Heaven's Gate anchors, rappel straight down 30 meters to next bolted anchors below roofs (you will be at the ends of your rope).
-Rappel down 30 meters to the very ends of your rope and pull/walk yourself ~30' over to the anchors on Golden Road (the anchors are not very visible until you are near the ends of your rope, and you will be at the last 2-3 feet of your rope to reach the anchors; there is little to no rope abrasion when pulling/walking yourself over if you position your rope properly).
-Rappel to next anchors on Golden Road.
-Rappel <30 meters to a ledge 15 feet off the ground (ropes will be out of sight down an overhang).
-Scramble down off of the ledge after pulling your rope.
Be aware! These are full length rappels on a 60 meter, so if you are unsure of your rope length, walk off instead (or bring a 70 meter or double ropes). Aug 24, 2009
Redmond, WA
Bring a full-range rack for the first pitch, but leave it at the belay. Pitches 2-4 are fully bolted. I thought pitch 2 was continually difficult/interesting, the move at the roof being similar in difficulty to moves higher up, except that a little more power is needed.
The crux for me on pitch 4 was going over the second roof. But the holds are all pretty good - it just gets a little pumpy. If you are good at hanging out on your arms, then you might find it easy. Sep 28, 2011
Maynard, MA
North Bend, WA
Redmond, WA
Seattle, WA
North Bend, WA
Overall thought this route was stellar! Aug 5, 2021
Leavenworth, WA
Seattle
Truck, Wenatchee
Seattle, WA
- Every pitch is stacked and fun. Well-bolted and deserving of "classic" status.
Some details:
- P2: Punchy boulder problem at the start. Definitely an Index .11a. The terrain after is incredible: sustained crimping following a dike for 30 meters! Nothing matches the crux in difficulty, but there is no giveaway all the way to the belay.
- P3: A nice break from pitches 2 and 4, but still engaging in its latter half. There are a couple of ways to climb the end that will change your experience of the pitch.
- P4: Granite roof climbing. It will feel rather hard for the on-sight attempt, and the pitch gets progressively harder the higher you get through the second roof. The difference between my first and second time up the route felt VERY different when I knew which features were good and which were not. Save some gas for exploring your options. A moderate, airy finish is the cherry on top for this pitch!
- Verdict: If Index .11s feel hard for you, this route is a great challenge. Good bolting and high-quality climbing make the quintessential Index experience approachable for those climbing/trying multis at the grade. Sep 11, 2022
Wenatchee