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Ultimate OW

5.10 PG13, Trad, 165 ft (50 m), Grade II,  Avg: 2.3 from 9 votes
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Mark Hawthorne
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Upper Pumphouse… > Ultimates > Ultimates East

Description

South side of the canyon steep Off width for approx 80ft then difficult chimney for another 80ft.

Location

located in "Mexican Pocket" on topo maps of area- where canyon walls begin to tower like Zion.

Protection

several bolts + gear to #4.5camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tyler Mattix onsighting this beauty.
[Hide Photo] Tyler Mattix onsighting this beauty.
Ult. OW
[Hide Photo] Ult. OW
Looking up the route (obviously).  First 20 feet not visible.
[Hide Photo] Looking up the route (obviously). First 20 feet not visible.
Ult. OW
[Hide Photo] Ult. OW
Ultimate OW as seen from atop Ultimate Frisbee.
[Hide Photo] Ultimate OW as seen from atop Ultimate Frisbee.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] GPS: 35.034198, -111.716814 Jul 5, 2011
[Hide Comment] Wear old clothing. Almost no actual OW technique required, 99% chimneying. May 13, 2013
Where's Walden
  5.10 PG13
[Hide Comment] Beautiful, unique feature but don't let it fool you. Its a chimney with one sharp stucco wall, sand, and a few death blocks. This route sucks, plain and simple. May 5, 2019
Tyler M
Northern AZ
  5.11- PG13
[Hide Comment] One of my favorite single pitch routes to date. It would be more fitting to call this the Ultimate Chimney. Adventure climbing, choss wrangling and a single pitch with 165 feet of chimneying.. Absolutely stellar (to the right user).

The log book tin was rusted through, with the paper and pen inside degraded beyond use. If you plan on heading up this route, bring a pencil, paper and sealed container to replace the log.

Disclaimer: Not for the faint of heart or those not comfy in the land of sandy and loose.

Rack: Bring doubles in small gear up to a 3, Single 4, nuts and plenty of alpines. I used twin ropes, clipping the bolt line and gear by the outside with one rope and gear more inside of the chimney with the other. Worked well. Recommend nesting small gear. Jul 8, 2019
Sam F
Arizona
  5.10 PG13
[Hide Comment] I really enjoyed this route. In my mind this is the most beautiful feature in the Ultimates and has always caught my eye. It was quite a fun adventure climbing it. Is this the longest single pitch at the Ultimates? All said though I wouldn’t recommend this route to anyone that’s not comfortable around looseness. I would recommend bringing a ton of runners to keep the rope away from the loose stuff and to help with drag. Also, the Marks must be those hairy-giant super climbers Harding wrote about in order for this route to be considered an OW!! May 4, 2020
TJ Aguilera
Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
[Hide Comment] I found a 5 to be useful in a few spots. Definitely a pitch for those that enjoy adventure climbing and lots of choss. Mentally and physically fun. Bring lots of runners! Jun 28, 2020