Type: Trad
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, D Weiss, M Rangel, M Hawthorne.
Page Views: 1,176 total · 8/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b/c
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b/c
approach from Midgely Bridge up Wilson Canyon trail to 3rd crossing of wash. head up hill steep approx 100ft then contour along gravel and slick rock benches up to NE ridge. approx 1hr. Apr 16, 2006
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
I agree the summit is awesome, the climb's worthy. Dec 28, 2006
jayci Ferrimani
Flagstaff
 
jayci Ferrimani   Flagstaff
 
This climb has a few worthy pitches. Lots of groveling on fourth class terrain, and lots of blocky climbing with deck potential. Nice views though. Jan 9, 2010
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
  5.10c
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
  5.10c
Wow...1000 feet of adventure climbing at its (Sedona) finest!! Hard, exciting climbing on soft, often loose rock. Gotta love Sedona! 5 star climbing on 1 star rock quality has gotta make it a 1 1/2 or two star climb out of 5. Approach listed in comments is for sure the way to go; we followed the Bloom/Wolfe guide and contoured around past Tisha/Princess and it took 2 hrs with plenty of exhausting bushwacking. Came out in 30 minutes by following route listed in comments.

There is one bolt not shown in any guide or MP page on the Nose Pitch that helps with the runout up the open arĂȘte. Bring tieable runners for the anchors; only pitches 1 & 2 have all metal rap anchors. We found 3 that needed serious replacement as this route is not done often.

Super adventure if you're OK with plenty of choss, soft rock, cactus and agave that leaves no choice but to climb & rap through. To quote Linus Platt (formerly of Moab) about desert sandstone climbing: "Its all choss; some is 5 star, but its all choss." Not for the faint of heart! 10 hour day all told for us.

Doubles from tight fingers to 4", nuts, long runners Oct 14, 2016