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Routes in Five Fingers Area

Chicken Chickenhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Man's Misery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Five Fingers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hornet's Rest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scumbag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tenderloin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Waltz, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 224 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 16, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

An interesting start leads to a an easy wide crack. The start is an undercling that leads to a length of liebacking, along good rock. It then has the odd move as you work from one wide crack to another. Finally, after you pass a slung tree and horn, you come to a divergence: a really steep offwidth/squeeze on the right or an easy wide crack to the left. The climb goes left. I tried right but the rock was rotten.

All in all a nice lower sequence followed by an easy upper sequence.

WARNING !! One last thing, after the lieback sequence, the next sequence involves a crack with a thin death flake. Beware. Helmets are advised.

Location

Probably the easiest approach is to climb up the tree filled gully/flake right of Callitwhatyouplease, and you will end up at the base. The crack that climbs alongside the vertical wall on the left is Chicken Chickenhead, and The Waltz climbs the next crack to the right, going left of the obvious chimney, Tenderloin. Rappel off a tree at the top of Tenderloin.

Protection

Standard rack, some runners and a few large pieces (hexes or large cams) for the wide sections... or you could not protect those certain areas. Set up your own anchor up top, so bring that gear also.

Photos

Mark P Thomas
Draper
 
Mark P Thomas   Draper
 
For my lead, including the direct wide exit, I used BD 1x#6, 1x#4, 2x#3, 1x#2, 1X#1, 2x#0.75, 1x#0.5, 1x#0.4. You can make a gear anchor just above the rapp tree for a better belay spot for the direct finish. That takes thin-wide hand pieces, #1-#5.

I opted for the slab bypass as well and found it reasonable. You can place a #1 BD cam high with a long sling to protect the first half well.

Also, I don't know if a missing hold broke off or I missed something, but finishing this route via the direct wide exit felt way harder than 5.6. I would have rated it more like 5.8-5.9 (based on my experience. I led a lot of wide in Yosemite, including the NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock & Harding Route on Conness). May 15, 2017
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.6
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.6
Fun route. The funky death flake/wide crack looked sketch and we opted instead for a short, fun, easy, slab sequence on the left to pass it (maybe this is standard route..?). There was a bit loose rock up higher and a sketchy looking terminal chockstone just above the wide crack/death flake (or slab-age). May 24, 2006
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
 
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, Nathan, but I remember a couple of guano holds :( Apr 18, 2006