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Routes in Buford

Fingorilla T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hardees Over, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hurricane Ky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tulip Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V4 6B
V3+ V3+ 6A+
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 1,459 total, 10/month
Shared By: JNE on Apr 14, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Sandbag. This is a beautiful shield of fine granite split in two by a striking, right-leaning, finger crack. Slightly overhanging, it starts out of an A-frame, then bomber locks lead to a nasty, flared hands crux. Impressive that Scarpelli did this, it would be a positively awful size for him all the way until the final hand jam. Come back here in the fall, when all the aspens are changing. It gets spectacular late afternoon light. It is well worth the walk. Do it!

Location

Park by the stream and then follow a game trail heading west which closely follows the north side of the stream. There is a good boulder problem 5.9 warm up dihedral to the right, about a half mile out, if you keep your eyes open. After about a mile, two domes will appear straight ahead. Fingorilla is on the west side of the southern dome.

Protection

#00 to #1.5 Friends.

Photos

JNE
 
JNE  
 
This now has an anchor. Jul 22, 2011
EldoFiend
WY
 
EldoFiend   WY
 
Five stars out of four. Simply amazing.

I think it is easier to traverse around right from the big ledge when cleaning the anchor (which takes #3 and #4 Camalots). I used the following gear, for those of you like me who are Friend-retarded: green-yellow Alien hybrid (or #0.5 Camalot a touch lower), red Alien (#0.5 Camalot), yellow Alien (#0.4 Camalot), and a #2 Camalot for the big pod up high. Aug 26, 2009