PRINT: Rock Climb Peewee's Piton, Joshua Tree National Park

Peewee's Piton

5.10b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 69 votes
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Dirk Addis, December 1998
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Hidden Valley C… > Peewee Rock

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Scramble up to a ledge and boulder up to clip a glue-in bolt which protects a mantle up and right onto a ledge below a left-slanting ramp system.

Lieback up the ramp to relatively new glue-in 3rd bolt (which replaced a fixed pin) (a 1" cam or nut can be placed ~3' below in the lieback), which protects awkward balance moves to get established on a small ledge below a section of attractive face climbing.

Above the rock quality improves and fun climbing up plated face and friction leads to a sport anchor below the top.

Great moves on this route but the rock quality in the lower portion leaves something to be desired. With time, and more ascents, this will get buffed out and become a popular climb in this area.
The lieback is still pretty chossy so don't expect a cam to hold a fall.

Location

Located on the right side of the north face just right of a prominent right-slanting wide crack, The Belly Scraper and left of another bolted line, The Oui Oui.

Protection

7 bolts, sport anchors. Optional 1" cam or equivalent nut.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Peewee's Piton

Moving from 2nd to 3rd bolt

From the base

The second piece in the photo (piton) protects the crux of Peewee's Piton (5.10a).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Randy
Lassitude 33

5.10a

Fun climb, 2 of 5 stars. Apr 13, 2006

Adam Stackhouse

5.10a

One can clip the lower piton and make a hard move or forget about it and go about 8-10 feet right and take a ramp to the bolt above. From there the left slanting crack takes a small cam along with clipping another piton. The piton is solid for now. The crux requires getting the feet on the face left of the crack as well as moving one's hands out of the ever shallowing crack to the beachball holds on the left. Mantle and its over. 4 more bomber bolts protect easy climbing on super rock to the top. Super nice sport anchors at the top. May 3, 2006

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

5.10-

As of April 2008, the pitons have been replaced with bolts. A small cam is still useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The move past the first bolt seems WAY harder than 10a to me. The leaning crack bit is funky and fun. Apr 18, 2008

Richard Shore

5.10-

Runout? Not in the least. It's a sport clip-up. Bouldery start that is harder than the advertised 10a, and somewhat height-dependent. Coarse rock that seems to have cleaned up quite nicely. 30 seconds from the campground and you won't find any lines here. Nov 28, 2011

David Carrera

10a?!? Shite, I must be the lightest climber around cause I couldn't send this rig at the first bolt. Had no problem with the 10c next door and believe strongly in upholding grades, but 10a for an onsight grade seems like a stretch. Will have to see the beta I guess... Apr 11, 2012

Todd Gordon
Joshua Tree, CA

You are correct, Dave...... Apr 12, 2012

David Carrera

Correct that I'm light? Apr 12, 2012

Todd Gordon
Joshua Tree, CA

Correct on the grade;....the opening move is probably 5.10b;...last time I was on the route, I climbed around the route to the right to by-pass the crux.......(I have the old man excuse...)....so no;.....you probably aren't as "light" as you are sand-bagged..... Apr 13, 2012

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA

As previously stated PeeWee's Piton seems a bit stiff for a 5.10a. As Todd indicated, bailing out right could alleviate some of the strain. Definitely, take small cam for the slot between the 2nd & 3rd bolt. Nov 16, 2014

Luke Lindeman
Salt Lake City, UT

Super fun. I thought this was a softer 10, but I could see folks thinking it's harder if they miss the hidden bucket above the first bolt... spoiler alert? Feb 14, 2018

Sam Cieply
Venice, CA

5.10b/c

Fun route, no need for any gear. By the time I had a comfortable stance to place gear after second bolt, it made more sense to just clip the third bolt. Oct 21, 2020