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Routes in Peewee Rock

Belly Scraper T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Oui Oui, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
PePe LePew TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peewee's Piton S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reverend Dick Shook, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Span-nish Fly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wee Willy Winkie TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Dirk Addis, December 1998
Page Views: 1,659 total, 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Apr 13, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Scramble up to a ledge and boulder up to clip a glue-in bolt which protects a mantle up and right onto a ledge below a left-slanting ramp system. Lieback up the ramp to a manky looking fixed pin (a 1" cam can be placed 3' below to back-up the pin) which protects awkward, balancy moves (5.10a) to get established on a small ledge below a section of attractive face. From here the rock quality improves and fun climbing up plated face and friction leads to a sport anchor below the top.

Great moves on this route but the rock quality in the lower portion leaves something to be desired. With time, and more ascents, this will get buffed out and become a popular climb in this area.

Location

Located on the right side of the north face just right of a prominent right-slanting wide crack, The Belly Scraper and left of another bolted line, The Oui Oui.

Protection

7 bolts, sport anchors. Optional 1" cam.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
As previously stated PeeWee's Piton seems a bit stiff for a 5.10a. As Todd indicated, bailing out right could alleviate some of the strain. Definitely, take small cam for the slot between the 2nd & 3rd bolt. Nov 16, 2014
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Correct on the grade;....the opening move is probably 5.10b;...last time I was on the route, I climbed around the route to the right to by-pass the crux.......(I have the old man excuse...)....so no;.....you probably aren't as "light" as you are sand-bagged..... Apr 13, 2012
Correct that I'm light? Apr 12, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
You are correct, Dave...... Apr 12, 2012
10a?!? Shite, I must be the lightest climber around cause I couldn't send this rig at the first bolt. Had no problem with the 10c next door and believe strongly in upholding grades, but 10a for an onsight grade seems like a stretch. Will have to see the beta I guess... Apr 11, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.10-
Richard Shore  
  5.10-
Runout? Not in the least. It's a sport clip-up. Bouldery start that is harder than the advertised 10a, and somewhat height-dependent. Coarse rock that seems to have cleaned up quite nicely. 30 seconds from the campground and you won't find any lines here. Nov 28, 2011
Colin Schour
Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Colin Schour   Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Good climb. The move past the first bolt is fun. The run-out at the top also provides for some excitement on easier climbing. Mar 21, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10-
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10-
As of April 2008, the pitons have been replaced with bolts. A small cam is still useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The move past the first bolt seems WAY harder than 10a to me. The leaning crack bit is funky and fun. Apr 18, 2008
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a
One can clip the lower piton and make a hard move or forget about it and go about 8-10 feet right and take a ramp to the bolt above. From there the left slanting crack takes a small cam along with clipping another piton. The piton is solid for now. The crux requires getting the feet on the face left of the crack as well as moving one's hands out of the ever shallowing crack to the beachball holds on the left. Mantle and its over. 4 more bomber bolts protect easy climbing on super rock to the top. Super nice sport anchors at the top. May 3, 2006
Randy
  5.10a
Randy  
  5.10a
Fun climb, 2 of 5 stars. Apr 13, 2006