Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: John Collins, 1990
Page Views: 2,742 total · 18/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 12, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

31 Opinions

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This varied route is a first pitch that leads to a 2nd pitch (Lords of Karma- 12c). It's however, a very worthwhile jaunt in itself. It starts with easier pockets leading to a tricky traverse right and committing moves in the roof section as you move right to better holds(crux). A roof pull-over leads to easier finishing moves to the anchors.


The first sport route left of Made in the Shade and Split Image. Left of the crack line, A Desperate Man 5.9


Bolts (aprox. 5). Rap Anchors.


Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
Bryson Slothower   Portland, OR
The bolt that protects the crux is difficult to clip until committed to the roof...bolt placement seems odd.
Put a long sling on the bolt below the roof unless you like rope drag. May 16, 2006
I'm no fan of retrobolting, but this is the prime candidate at smith for it. it seems the bolts were thrown in randomly on rappel. great piece of stone, terrible fixed protection with the chance for some bad falls. Jun 20, 2006
Corey McCarthy
Redmond, OR
Corey McCarthy   Redmond, OR
Not to sure about the previous posts, bolting is not bad by any means. pretty standard smith spacing. watch the first bolt, after that have fun. this is the best 10d i could ever imagine! Nov 17, 2010
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
+1 for not dangerous. The first bolt is high, but the climbing to it felt reasonable to me... After that expect having to make moves above bolts, but the rock is bomber and the falls are clean. Nov 17, 2010
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
I'd agree the falls aren't bad because I took a couple good ones. Cleaning the route if the second leads is a pain in the ass though. Dec 5, 2011
Scott Becker
Medford, OR
Scott Becker   Medford, OR
I can't believe how many times I've walked by this route without climbing it. Great climb. The only slightly sketchy part might be clipping the bolt below the roof (4th?) since you're on greasy edges and thin feet. This might be more trivial on a cooler day. Also, there are more bolts on this route than this page or the book shows, but it's easy to figure that out from the base of the route. Go do it! Jun 26, 2012
Corvallis, Oregon
donggua   Corvallis, Oregon
if this is a 10d, i have to downgrade every other 10d i have done to 5.9, dont understand why its this hard for me, i totally lack some strength/technique or just didnt find the sequence to do the roof moves? there's a easy 5.10 move just above the 2nd bolt and then clip the bolt under the roof is insanely hard, making to the roof is not easy, over the roof is not easy, then move one move to the right is not easy, finally even the "easy" finish still feels like a balancy 5.10...

the bolt below the roof is hard to clip, really really hard... 6 bolts, not 5. not fun at all to clean on the way down... May 12, 2013
Chris M
Hailey, ID
Chris M   Hailey, ID
Fun route. I'm 5'10 and could hang the draw and clip the bolt above the roof before committing to any roof moves- might be different if you are shorter, but with good footwork it shouldn't be much of an issue. Your feet are right above the 4th bolt, and the fall looks clean, so go for it! Probably not the best route to break into 10d on (he, he), especially if you just eeked out the OS of Moons of Pluto. Jun 30, 2016
Rod J.
Bend, OR
Rod J.   Bend, OR
Great route with a variety of moves. Hardest 10d in the park; harder than many 11a's. You will want to TR it (after the lead) to clean the draws. Oct 5, 2016
NarcissusEmbodied Sustrich   Portland, OR
Felt harder to me than several 11s I've been on, including vomit launch, pocket pool, and toxic. Seemed like the bolts were poorly placed in relation to the moves. Great/ fun movements though. Oct 23, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Fun climb. Aug 24, 2017
Trevor James
Bend, OR
Trevor James   Bend, OR
Just a heads up: lots of bird nests with live birds in the undercling. Maybe not the best time to climb this beaut. May 30, 2018
John Ericson
A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
John Ericson   A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
This is a great climb. I am surprised by how many people dislike it. In my opinion, the bolting is done pretty well. It may be a bit spooky for those not accustomed to Smith or those who try to clip high above their heads, but the falls appear to be safe and the clips are in good stances. I found the movement to be fun from the beginning to the end. 4/5 stars.

There were no birds in the nest when I got on, but that could detract from the quality if there were. Sep 24, 2018