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Routes in North Mesa

1999 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Andy Kaufman Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cobra Vision T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fat Bastard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hurricane, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rusty Cage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stage, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Burcham & John Mattson
Page Views: 1,159 total, 8/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Apr 11, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 - Follow a line of five bolts through the limestone band. Take 1x1 Camalot and 1x2 Camalot to protect the top portion of this pitch. Belay from two bolts at a nice stance. (5.9)

Pitch 2 - Climb the sweet thin hand to hand crack in a corner which leads to the chimney. Chimney your way up past two bolts to a short off-width crack. Surmount this off-width and belay from three bolts at a flat spot in the chimney. (5.10-)

Pitch 3 - Chimney straight up off the belay about 15 feet to a ledge. From here either continue up a low angle wide crack to the top of the formation or walk left to the three bolt rap anchor. (Top of Fat Bastard) (5.9) If you continue to the top, there is a fixed anchor from which you may rap back to the Fat Bastard Anchor.

Descent - From the Fat Bastard Anchors make one double rope rappel. (about 140') From here scramble around to the right and then down to your packs. Be sure to take a ride on Fat Bastard (5.11- OW) before pulling your ropes.

Location

From the Mace approach, follow the spur trail around the north side of North Mesa. Continue around to the West face of this formation. The Hurricane is actually located on a sub-tower of North Mesa which sits on the Southwest corner. The route is marked by the chimney on the second pitch.

Protection

Medium - Large Stoppers
1 x 2 (Yellow) Metolius TCU/Yellow Alien
1 x .5 Camalot (Old Sizes)
1 x .75 Camalot
2 x 1 Camalot
2 x 2 Camalot
1 x 3 Camalot
1 x 3.5 Camalot
1 x 4 Camalot
Draws and slings

Photos

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Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
Another fun Sedona sandstone adventure. Only issue for me was the very soft, friable flakes (look like honeycomb in a hive) around the bolts inside the chimney. Easy to get around them, and the bolts are perfect there.

Makes a good day with Andy Kaufman and Rusty Cage! Nov 16, 2016
Eva Christ  
 
I really liked this short route a lot! It was surprisingly cleaner than many Sedona routes, the chimney is good to protect and fun and stellar hand cracks for small hands - yes- the first pitch is run out, the first bolt way up - I would want a clip stick next time. Nov 4, 2016
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10-
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10-
A fine route away from the hiker crowds, with lots of variety.
Beware that you must make a couple of tenuous 5.8-ish moves to clip the first bolt, 30 feet off the ground.
Pitch 2 is the money: starts with a stellar hand-crack leading into a surprisingly comfy chimney. The short offwidth problem below the anchors is probably the crux of the route.

RAP BETA: Fat Bastard can be rapped with a single 70-meter rope. Oct 24, 2016
Dillon Metcalfe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Dillon Metcalfe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Climbed this on Dec 21rst (shortest day of the year) and it was in the shade all day.
Be warned: there is a lot of loose rock on this climb, including the slabby moves getting to the first bolt. Dec 22, 2014