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Routes in Lower Religion Wall

Brown Hornet T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cat Claw S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Centipede S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Church Nazi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Locomotion, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Poop Chute T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watchtower AKA Last Temptation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,590 total · 11/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Apr 11, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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26 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the most obvious corner/crack system in the middle of the Lower Religion Wall. The route starts as fingers then opens to hands before mantling onto a flake. (The flake, while scary, has been jumped up and down on, beaten with a hammer, etc.) From here climb the awkward slot above to where the crack splits. The left finish is fingers in a corner and goes at 5.10+. The right finish climbs broken rock to a short hand crack through the limestone band to a two bolt rap anchor.

Location

This route is basically in the middle of the Lower Religion Wall. To descend, rap from a two bolt anchor.

Protection

2 x Blue Metolius (Met) TCU
2 x Yellow Met TCU
2 x .5 Camalot (old sizes)
2 x .75 Camalot
2 x 1 Camalot
2 x 2 Camalot
1-2 x 3 Camalot
Medium to Large Stoppers
Slings and Draws
2 Bolt Rap Anchor at top

Photos

Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
The dirt flake was definitely a bit unnerving. but I'm used to granite so you can take that with a grain of salt. Jan 12, 2010
bio
mesa, az
  5.10-
bio   mesa, az
  5.10-
The crappy flake/block is now gone, that section is dirty but is safer, especially for the belayer. Jan 29, 2010
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10- PG13
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10- PG13
Fun climb, though the protection/rock quality through the crux leaves something to be desired. Apr 5, 2010
JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.9 PG13
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.9 PG13
You can really sew this up, whether rock comes down with you if you fall is a separate issue... Probably not a 10? Fantastic moves and a crack within a crack. Super fun but crappy name Jan 15, 2012
RECENT EARTHQUAKE HAS LOOSENED FLAKES HALF WAY UP THIS ROUTE, DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE!! I almost killed my belayer and possibly myself when 2 of the large flakes began to fall out from the crack while attempting to place gear and was forced to down climb. Dec 8, 2014
Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
Zach Harrison   Flagstaff
Yesterday I was able to liberate the loose 'death blocks' from the middle of the route. A couple BD #5's offer solid gear now. Who loves offwidths? Jan 9, 2015

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