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Latest Rage

5.12b, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 131 votes
FA: Alan Watts, February 1984
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (k) The Dihedrals
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Description

Most climbers start this classic arete route by veering in from the right onto the arete rather than the original direct start. Continuous technical arete moves highlight the climb. For myself, I've found the moves past the final bolt easiest on the left (the original crux), while the majority of climbers apparently find it easier to stay on the right side.

Location

The arete just left of Karate Crack, in front of the stair-steps.

Protection

5 Bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Quite a few classic frontside climbs in this photo!  Photo: Brian C
[Hide Photo] Quite a few classic frontside climbs in this photo! Photo: Brian C
Photo cred: RJ Klingelhoffer
[Hide Photo] Photo cred: RJ Klingelhoffer
Jeff on Latest Rage on a sunny and warm day in November
[Hide Photo] Jeff on Latest Rage on a sunny and warm day in November
Nick San Martin with the Latest Rage in his eye. November 2021
[Hide Photo] Nick San Martin with the Latest Rage in his eye. November 2021
Nick San Martin hitting the final ledge of Latest Rage. November 2021
[Hide Photo] Nick San Martin hitting the final ledge of Latest Rage. November 2021
John on Latest Rage.
[Hide Photo] John on Latest Rage.
Having fun on Latest Rage.
[Hide Photo] Having fun on Latest Rage.
Matthew Punnoose about to whip
[Hide Photo] Matthew Punnoose about to whip
The Latest Rage hangout
[Hide Photo] The Latest Rage hangout
Back in the day.
[Hide Photo] Back in the day.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] This route is a blast, especially because when you get sick of falling out of the crux you can walk 10ft. to your left and fall out of the crux on Watt's Totts. ;) Apr 11, 2006
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Definitely sustained the whole way. I found the moves above the last bolt to be easier on the ft side of the arete as well. Oct 15, 2008
[Hide Comment] I think it's easier to go left too, but everyone I was climbing with today went right. Oct 29, 2011
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] I've never tried going left. On the right I do remember one pretty big deadpoint to a GREAT hold which was pretty committing cause you're a ways above your bolt. Feb 13, 2013
Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] .75 (green) camalot for the optional piece. The hard climbing is over by this point though. Apr 3, 2014
[Hide Comment] All draws and quick links replaced as of 12/2/16 not sure who put up the old ones but contact me if you want the steel biners and quick links back, they're in decent shape Dec 2, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Once you reach the ledge a . 75 Green Camalot is really not needed. Super fun climb. Jun 18, 2018
MilesC
 
[Hide Comment] The only flaw is that it's too short! Oct 15, 2020
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] While it's true that most climbers finish the hard climbing on the right side of the arete, the bolting will make more sense and the fall will be better if you do the left finish. I know three climbers with over 60 years collective climbing experience who all flipped upside down falling off the righthand finish.

Edit to add in response to the perspectives below on the 4th and 5th bolts:

I agree that the 4th bolt should have been moved around the corner bitd, but given that it was rebolted years ago with a countersunk fixe, the effort do so and impact to the rock inherent in the process didn't seem worth it to me when I moved the 2nd and 3rd. (and placed the 5th) As I understand it, the 4th bolt wasn't positioned to 'force' a sequence, but rather that's just how the route was climbed during that era. Given its current (unlikely to change) position, going left is arguably a better way to finish, despite not being the most obvious sequence.

The 5th was placed to protect the leader from the low-likelihood/high-consequence event of rock breaking going to the chains. (and to put more than a single bolt between the leader and the ground when doing the crux on Monster Rage) Yes, you can place a cam, but very few climbers hike cams in with them if they're trying routes like Latest Rage. Quite a bit of thought was put into its placement. Clearly I and many of the local climbers I surveyed before placing it arrived at a different conclusion than Michal and Josh. The reason it wasn't placed lower was to preserve the original nature of the bolting. (it's unfortunate that people are hanging double length runners on it for a variety of reasons) Running it out to the rail is part of the deal when climbing this route and personally I think it adds value to the climbing experience. Nov 25, 2020
michalm
 
[Hide Comment] Nice sustained climbing, and the perma draws on this wall are certainly appreciated. The position of the 4th bolt on this route prevents the route from getting 4 stars from me. The 5th bolt seems not particularly useful in its current location. Too bad more thought wasn’t put into moving the bolts to a more useful spot before putting in the glue ins. The right sequence is both obvious and logical: climbing the right side of the arete the whole way up the route. Boltlines that try to force climbing an unnatural way don’t make for a classic route in my experience. Jan 14, 2022
[Hide Comment] I give this route four stars despite being in full agreement with michalm about the location of the last two bolts.

Indeed, the fourth bolt should probably have been moved around the right side of the arete and possibly lowered, and the fifth bolt (which I'm told is a recent retro) is pointless in its existing location: lower, and it could have been clipped prior to the big move to the ledge, off to the right and it would serve Monster Rage better, or not at all and the optional cam placement would remain entirely adequate. As they are, we have festooned both with extendo-tat in order to cope.

In the grand scheme of things these are minor quibbles and the climbing remains fantastic: For its diminutive size this pitch sure packs in a lot of action. Jan 24, 2022
AJ
[Hide Comment] The original/direct start is a fun boulder problem on great rock and dead obvious. Can't figure out how skipping it is considered standard.
I finished on the right and found the location of the fourth bolt to be a total non-issue. Thanks for your hard work Max.
youtube.com/playlist?list=P… Mar 12, 2023
Adam Hoke
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] I agree with AJ in regards to the direct start; fun moves adding to the line while maintaining the arete climbing style. Dec 5, 2023