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Latest Rage
5.12b,
Sport, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 131
votes
FA: Alan Watts, February 1984
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (k) The Dihedrals
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Most climbers start this classic arete route by veering in from the right onto the arete rather than the original direct start. Continuous technical arete moves highlight the climb. For myself, I've found the moves past the final bolt easiest on the left (the original crux), while the majority of climbers apparently find it easier to stay on the right side.
Location
The arete just left of Karate Crack, in front of the stair-steps.
Protection
[Hide Photo] Quite a few classic frontside climbs in this photo! Photo: Brian C
[Hide Photo] Photo cred: RJ Klingelhoffer
[Hide Photo] Jeff on Latest Rage on a sunny and warm day in November
[Hide Photo] Nick San Martin with the Latest Rage in his eye. November 2021
Phoenix, AZ
Beavercreek, Oregon
Bend
Bend, OR
Bend, OR
Tucson
Bend, OR
Edit to add in response to the perspectives below on the 4th and 5th bolts:
I agree that the 4th bolt should have been moved around the corner bitd, but given that it was rebolted years ago with a countersunk fixe, the effort do so and impact to the rock inherent in the process didn't seem worth it to me when I moved the 2nd and 3rd. (and placed the 5th) As I understand it, the 4th bolt wasn't positioned to 'force' a sequence, but rather that's just how the route was climbed during that era. Given its current (unlikely to change) position, going left is arguably a better way to finish, despite not being the most obvious sequence.
The 5th was placed to protect the leader from the low-likelihood/high-consequence event of rock breaking going to the chains. (and to put more than a single bolt between the leader and the ground when doing the crux on Monster Rage) Yes, you can place a cam, but very few climbers hike cams in with them if they're trying routes like Latest Rage. Quite a bit of thought was put into its placement. Clearly I and many of the local climbers I surveyed before placing it arrived at a different conclusion than Michal and Josh. The reason it wasn't placed lower was to preserve the original nature of the bolting. (it's unfortunate that people are hanging double length runners on it for a variety of reasons) Running it out to the rail is part of the deal when climbing this route and personally I think it adds value to the climbing experience. Nov 25, 2020
Indeed, the fourth bolt should probably have been moved around the right side of the arete and possibly lowered, and the fifth bolt (which I'm told is a recent retro) is pointless in its existing location: lower, and it could have been clipped prior to the big move to the ledge, off to the right and it would serve Monster Rage better, or not at all and the optional cam placement would remain entirely adequate. As they are, we have festooned both with extendo-tat in order to cope.
In the grand scheme of things these are minor quibbles and the climbing remains fantastic: For its diminutive size this pitch sure packs in a lot of action. Jan 24, 2022
I finished on the right and found the location of the fourth bolt to be a total non-issue. Thanks for your hard work Max.
youtube.com/playlist?list=P… Mar 12, 2023
Lander, WY