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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)

976 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death in the Afternoon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Importance of Being Ernest, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Moveable Feast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
On the Nob T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodle Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poodle in Shining Armor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poodle-oids from The Deep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scary Poodles T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spoodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Brian Povolny, Steve Strong, Tom Michael & Todd Gordon 10/86
Page Views: 80 total, 1/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Apr 10, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An interesting, uncrowded alternative if Hemingway Buttress is crawling with climbers (which it usually is).

The first section has some awkward jamming to a big ledge. Admire the bat/bird "spoodle" that has grown into giant mushrooms. Pull a small bulge and crank up the final hand crack.

Location

About 40' right of Prepackaged and just left of The Importance of Being Earnest. It starts off a higher ledge and can be recognized by the initial flaring/wide crack.

Protection

Bring Camalots from #0.5-#4 and some nuts. I didn't have a #4 but would have preferred it.

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Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Mega-fungus growing in the alcove. Freaking crazy. Thought the route was kinda hard. many moves at the grade, and the lower crack is a bit physical. protects well. Worth doing despite how semi-mediocre it looks from the ground (and you get to tick off another "poodle route." ;) Apr 9, 2012