Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit:
facebook.com/friendsofindia… saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2… 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Tamarisk Clearing
USA
Lyons, CO
Denver, CO
As for the direct start, all the gear you can put in is behind a somewhat loose block (looks solid from the ground but its not awe inspiring when you have your hands on it), and while I doubt the rock would pull if you fell, if it shifted just a bit, all of your tiny cams would pop right out.
all in all an awesome route, well worth getting on one way or the other. May 10, 2010
doing it this way, it is well protected. fun route. Mar 28, 2013
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Nevada
On my way down from Neat, I set an anchor of #3 cams in the lowermost part of the Hayutake splitter in order to top-rope the initial traverse. Felt nice to have this setup. Oct 10, 2016
Fort Collins, CO
Los Angeles, CA
- Beta warning *: heel hook the high left foot and crank up with your back to the wall. Reach up to the roof and get a foot in the corner and get high quickly so the under cling gets good.
Nov 27, 2018Seattle, WA
I protected the direct start with a .2 cam in the seam off the foot ledge, then I placed a .1 and a .2 cam both in the finger pocket under the roof flake thing. A #3 BD cam fits perfectly behind the flake and the flake is very solid. I don't think a #4 would fit well but I might be mistaken.
I agree that being shorter (I'm 5'10"ish) would probably definitely make getting up to the flake harder, but it could definitely be done. The few moves after the flake getting into the main crack are kind of awkward but not too hard, just don't relax too quick. The upper hand crack is amazing splitter just-wide hands.
I looked at the traverse and it looks quite good and easier than it does from the ground, but I didn't try it. Next time! Nov 30, 2020
Salt Lake City
South Fork
Traverse option is all incut jugs. I'll try that way next time. Oct 25, 2021