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Hayutake

5.10+ PG13, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 185 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Optimator
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Description

AKA: "Heyduke Lives" The companion route to Neat has a scary entry move and a couple of tricky wide hands moves followed by a long stretch of cruiser hands with rests to the anchors. I preserved Bloom's rating though the climb as described here didn't seem any harder than Neat.

Climb the chossy first 15' of Neat to the ledge. Move up three or four feet in the slot, place a cluster of small gear (good blue Aliens on the L, questionable green Alien to the right) with long slings then head right with good, incut hands and no feet until you can swing into Hayduke's crack; this traverse while perhaps 5.8 is the business of the climb -- if you somehow blew it, you would swing hard into Neat's left wall. (The first photo in the Neat description, entitled "the whole route" clearly shows the horizontal feature where one traverses.) Once established in Hayduke's crack, consider future rope drag possibilities when placing gear. The crack gradually narrows from #3 Camalots to .75 Camalots.

There is a desperate direct boulder problem start with a lot of wishful thinking chalk smeared all over it; bring purple Aliens. It is somewhat puzzling to me why there is so much chalk on this variation and virtually none on the regular start.

Location

Start as for Neat

Protection

Blue and green aliens to protect the traverse, a couple of #3 Camalots, six or more #2 Camalots, 1 or two pieces each #1 - .5 Camalots. Two or three long slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

the traverse
[Hide Photo] the traverse
Neat and Heyutake
[Hide Photo] Neat and Heyutake
Getting gear in after the hand traverse.
[Hide Photo] Getting gear in after the hand traverse.
Heather G sending!
[Hide Photo] Heather G sending!
there are chances to rest
[Hide Photo] there are chances to rest
the hand crack begins
[Hide Photo] the hand crack begins

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rob Dillon
Tamarisk Clearing
[Hide Comment] Well Dave, there was a lot of chalk on it when we got there,and I added a bunch more. And still couldn't do it. If my experience is any indication, you can stand at the base of the direct start all day chalking up, but nobody's stopping in the middle of the traverse to dab it up. Eventually I did the usual traverse-in-on-the-thin-crack start, which was a lot easier, despite its appearance. Apr 13, 2006
[Hide Comment] The direct start isn't too bad, but it is hard to protect. Any place you find to place gear will be in one of the key handholds. Nov 13, 2006
Will Butler
Lyons, CO
[Hide Comment] the direct start felt more like 11- rather than the 5.10 rating that bloom gave it. This might however have something to do with the PG nature of the opening moves. Mar 10, 2008
Phillip Tearse
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The traverse is fun if a little awkward establishing in the crack after it. quite possible to set up a tr above the traverse if you swing out on the way down from neat to avoid the potentially devastating fall if you blew it.

As for the direct start, all the gear you can put in is behind a somewhat loose block (looks solid from the ground but its not awe inspiring when you have your hands on it), and while I doubt the rock would pull if you fell, if it shifted just a bit, all of your tiny cams would pop right out.

all in all an awesome route, well worth getting on one way or the other. May 10, 2010
Tavis Ricksecker
5.10 PG13
[Hide Comment] Found this a bit easier than Neat. Traverse is more of a mental crux, the moves aren't too bad. Oct 20, 2010
slim

  5.10c
[Hide Comment] a good way to do this route is to tie into both ends of your rope, use the 'left' rope to climb a ways up neat and get some gear. do the traverse and get some gear in 'hay u take' with the 'right' rope, make a few moves to get to a stance, untie the left rope (belayer can pull it down), then keep going with the 'right' rope.

doing it this way, it is well protected. fun route. Mar 28, 2013
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
[Hide Comment] Slim....That sounds WAY to complicated for most of the people on here Mar 29, 2013
slim

  5.10c
[Hide Comment] yeah, you're probably right :). at the time i didn't know the traverse would be easy - for some reason i thought it would be the crux of the route. Apr 1, 2013
Derek Field
Nevada
  5.10+ PG13
[Hide Comment] I found the traverse to be heady, and besides the scare factor, I wouldn't hesitate to call it 5.10+ along with the rest of the route. Be honest, you're practically campusing across a blank slab on thin pin-scars to a desperate foot-jam...

On my way down from Neat, I set an anchor of #3 cams in the lowermost part of the Hayutake splitter in order to top-rope the initial traverse. Felt nice to have this setup. Oct 10, 2016
Nate Mankovich
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] What a fun traverse! After doing the route I had the chance to toprope the direct start. I'd say it is a techy v3-4. Apr 27, 2017
Aaron Price
Los Angeles, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Maybe one of the best routes I've ever done. I did the boulder start on TR, if I had to lead it I'd probably protect with some nuts and have like a #4 or 5 for the roof. I'm 5'10", any shorter and it gets a lot harder, 6' and above and it's a much easier move to the roof undercling... everything was cruiser after that... perfect hands.

  • Beta warning *: heel hook the high left foot and crank up with your back to the wall. Reach up to the roof and get a foot in the corner and get high quickly so the under cling gets good.
Nov 27, 2018
Ian Edison
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Direct start gear beta:
I protected the direct start with a .2 cam in the seam off the foot ledge, then I placed a .1 and a .2 cam both in the finger pocket under the roof flake thing. A #3 BD cam fits perfectly behind the flake and the flake is very solid. I don't think a #4 would fit well but I might be mistaken.

I agree that being shorter (I'm 5'10"ish) would probably definitely make getting up to the flake harder, but it could definitely be done. The few moves after the flake getting into the main crack are kind of awkward but not too hard, just don't relax too quick. The upper hand crack is amazing splitter just-wide hands.

I looked at the traverse and it looks quite good and easier than it does from the ground, but I didn't try it. Next time! Nov 30, 2020
Aleksander Holleran
Salt Lake City
  5.11- PG13
[Hide Comment] Lead the direct, it takes a blue TCU for the opening move, this was spooky as the block is not huge. A great green bd nut can be placed in the thin crack plus a #3 overhead. I would recommend the nut far over a small cam as it keeps the only good hold open. Dead point to the hand jam for style points then ride out into the sunset on 100ft of cruiser jams. Mar 30, 2021
[Hide Comment] Any opinions on the grade for the direct start? i can't decide if it's still 10+ or breaks into 11 Apr 16, 2021
Wes O'Rourke
South Fork
  5.10+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Great route! Did the direct start and it's lots of fun despite the spooky choked flake you stand on. I'm 6' tall and could slip a #3 into the roof off of the good flake stance making the route easily protected.

Traverse option is all incut jugs. I'll try that way next time. Oct 25, 2021
[Hide Comment] Traversed over from Neat. Foot jam in first so fun!! Oct 26, 2021