Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 3,191 total · 21/month
Shared By: JNE on Apr 9, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


Stiff and wild, this climb makes the gymnastics associated with sport climbing seem like oversprayed hype. This climb defines Vedauwoo in a way; beautiful, creative, and out of this world. A must do for visiting hardpeople. Open your mind and puzzle your way up this beautiful and crazy overhanging monstrosity. Like nothing else out there. Intellectually stimulating sequence. Do it!


Find Public Whipping Post and continue up the gully above, staying to the left as mush as possible. Skirt the wall around to the right of Blaster Junior (The face with the handcrack up the middle of it and the huge boulder sitting above it, up and left from the top of the gully) and up another higher gully filled with big, stacked boulders. You will find this beautiful beast lurking above you to the left. Has a great spectator platform so you can get an intimate view of your friends in action. Short enough to make you think you can hike it.


#5 Zeros up to #5 Friend. The seam through the roof at the beginning swallows up small cams, despite it's appearance. Gear anchor up top. Walk off.


One of the best routes ever...anywhere. May 21, 2008
Bryan Gilmore
Bryan Gilmore   FLG, AZ
Definitely a benchmark for the grade, if you can't do this then don't say you're a 5.12 climber. Jun 28, 2008
Casual. Well maybe not casual but.... May 30, 2010
Cedar Wright  
What a wonderful mix of cerebral problem solving and brutal, pugilistic rock wrestling. Tripmaster is Much Harder and cooler than Squat. Makes you rethink what 12b means. Short, stout, and gnarly, kind of like the first ascentionist Bob Scarpelli! Bob was way ahead of his time pulling out crazy stunts like this in the eighties...what a bad ass! After I got a serious beat down day one...got rained off day two...I was VERY stoked to barely send...felt like a right of passage...like I may finally be on my way to becoming a man. Jul 16, 2015
Dang. Sep 23, 2015