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Routes in East Face - 2nd Tier

Martian Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Gully S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,037 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ryan Carlino on Apr 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

Begin behind a small juniper bush. There's a block you can undercling and then mantle. From there to points right you could climb anywhere on the face. Head to the drilled pin and then to the cave. Pass it on the right side up a cool gully to the top.

Location

It is on the "second tier" of Keyhole. From the South End Topropes of Kindergarten (Cathedral), hike west, uphill on a dirt trail to a saddle. The second tier is on your right. You can access the top of the climb by hiking around back, into a small canyon between 2 fins. A little hiking gets you to a place where you can walk on top of the fin of interest. Pass a large boulder and walk the top of the fin to the anchors.

Protection

1 drilled pin and a piton in the cave. 5.7R in the book. I'd TR from the Martian Route anchors.

Photos

Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Led this today. I'd highly recommend you TR it, as the first bolt is high enough to lead to some broken ankles if you miss some of those first difficult moves. Fun route altogether, if short. Jul 17, 2008