PRINT: Rock Climb Lance, Colorado Springs

Lance

5.6, Trad, 140 ft (42 m),

Avg: 1.7 from 9 votes
FA: Albert Ellingwood, 1920s
Colorado > Colorado Springs > Garden of the Gods > Kindergarten Rock > W Face

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closure - lifted Details

Per Bret Tennis: I wanted to share that we have lifted the rock climbing closures for Gray Rock in Garden of the Gods.

Previously: the 2023 seasonal closure on the east face/north end are now in place per Bret Tennis, GOG staff. The permanent closures on the south end are still in effect.

The seasonal climbing closure were the same as 2021 in 2022 (which started 3/26/22):

The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)

Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:

Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.

One exception is that Family Values is open.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.

Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:

The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.

Continued climbing closures from 2018:

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.

New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.

Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023 Details

Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.

Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.

In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.

Kindergarten/Gray Rock

2018-24 Sleeping Giant/Keyhole Rock & Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

2023 & 2024 Closure info from GOG staff.

2023 & 2024 Closure photo from GOG staff.

North Gateway

Old info:

Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.

Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:

The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.

The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.

Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:

Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.

2020-22 Gateway Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.

Closures as of June 5, 2019:

The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.

2019 Raptor Climbing Closures. From: Larry, City Staff, Office 719-219-0108.

The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.

2019 Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Raptor Closures. From: Larry, City Staff, Office 719-219-0108.

Continued climbing closures from 2018:

The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.

Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.

Access Issue: New Closure! Details

New as of 2018: this formation is closed to climbing due to rock quality issues and wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.

Description

New as of 2018: this route on this face of the formation is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.

As of 7/1/24: this route is permanently closed.

This is an early Garden route - surprised not to see it at this site.

Climb the left side of the large, Scarecrow flake.

Begin on a rock ledge and get into the right-facing dihedral. Climb up to and around (or over) a bulge. Finish up the chimney to the top of the flake and anchors.

Location

On the west face of Kindergarten (Cathedral). A small trail winds its way to the climb through sticker bushes.

Protection

Nuts and cams should get you up. Shares anchors with Scarecrow.

Descent

Per Rich F.: rappel from the two bolts at the top of the route/top of Scarecrow. I rappeled with a single 70m rope and it was no problem. I doubt a single 60m would reach the ground, but may get close enough to downclimb the last several feet.

Getting There

As of 2018: please do not approach this climb.

Bird Alert

Per Dan Swann: there is a Great Horned Owl that calls this climb home.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up at the beginning of Lance.

Another shot of Lance. Route outlined in red.

West Face of Kindergarten (Cathedral) Rock with 3 routes shown. All head to top of large flake.

Side view of Lance. Beginning is noted. First piece of pro is at end of red line. Head all the way to the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO

5.6

Climbed this with my son, Danny, today. Enjoyed the route a lot for a 5.6. The route calls for a little face climbing and some chimney/offwidth climbing. It protects well with small to medium cams. This route has a couple of places where it makes you think about the best way up -- like just below the large flake overhang near the start of the route. Fun route, and I don't think it gets much traffic.

Descent -- rappeled from the two bolts at the top of the route/top of scarecrow. I rappeled with a single 70m rope and it was no problem. I doubt a single 60m would reach the ground, but may get close enough to downclimb the last several feet. Nov 8, 2008

Anonymous User

Led today with Rich. A fun climb that doesn't look like it gets much traffic. An early move around an overhanging flake is the crux, followed by a fun chimney mid section and easy scramble at the top. Protects well with a standard rack. I should have used a sling below the crux and belayed Rich up just above the crux as our rope got jammed. Watch out for lots of loose crap, especially in the chimney. I pulled off a hand hold. Used most of my new 70m rope for the fun near-vertical rappel on two old but solid bolts. May 20, 2009

Andito
Colorado Springs

The climbing and protection over the bulge at the beginning were fantastic. Protection in the chimney was dicey at best. I couldn't quite plug a number five cam, and the other placements I had were in questionable rock or shallow cracks. In short, be prepared to more or less solo the chimney portion as a leader. I followed Dave G's advice and belayed my two followers after the crux. There is a good ledge and good protection for that. Rope drag would have definitely been an issue if I'd have waited to belay from the top.
The followers told me the face climbing on the ridge to the left of the chimney was far more aesthetic than my grunt up the chimney. Jun 14, 2010

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO

I also recommend the intermediate belay above the crux; not only is rope drag a concern but I know from doing Sword in the Stone a few days earlier that communication can be very difficult from top to bottom and vice versa.

There is some protection at the bottom of the chimney sections but not past that. Not to worry, these two sections are short and easy.

To find the rap anchor: once you get above the last chimney, into the bushes, look to your left for a 6' pinnacle. Go through the notch on the far side of the pinnacle (north side) onto a big ledge. The anchor is on the face to your right. Jan 7, 2011

Dan Swann
Colorado Springs

This should be avoided till further notice. There is a Great Horned Owl that calls this climb home. Jan 14, 2018