PRINT: Rock Climb Family Values, Colorado Springs

Family Values

5.7, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 58 votes
FA: Scott Edwards, 2006
Colorado > Colorado Springs > Garden of the Gods > Kindergarten Rock > S Face

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closure - lifted Details

Per Bret Tennis: I wanted to share that we have lifted the rock climbing closures for Gray Rock in Garden of the Gods.

Previously: the 2023 seasonal closure on the east face/north end are now in place per Bret Tennis, GOG staff. The permanent closures on the south end are still in effect.

The seasonal climbing closure were the same as 2021 in 2022 (which started 3/26/22):

The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)

Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:

Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.

One exception is that Family Values is open.

2018-24 Sleeping Giant/Keyhole Rock & Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

2023 & 2024 Closure info from GOG staff.

2023 & 2024 Closure photo from GOG staff.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.

Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:

The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.

Continued climbing closures from 2018:

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.

New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.

Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023 Details

Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.

Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.

In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.

Kindergarten/Gray Rock

2018-24 Sleeping Giant/Keyhole Rock & Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

2023 & 2024 Closure info from GOG staff.

2023 & 2024 Closure photo from GOG staff.

North Gateway

From Bret Tennis, GOG, Park Operations Administrator: North Gateway Rock expanded raptor nesting closure. Requested to post. This applies for 2024 as it did for 2018-2023.

Old info:

Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.

Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:

The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.

The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.

Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:

Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.

2020-22 Gateway Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

2018-24 Sleeping Giant/Keyhole Rock & Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.

Closures as of June 5, 2019:

The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.

2019 Raptor Climbing Closures. From: Larry, City Staff, Office 719-219-0108.

The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.

2019 Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Raptor Closures. From: Larry, City Staff, Office 719-219-0108.

Continued climbing closures from 2018:

The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.

Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.

Description

This is a short (50'-60') 4-bolt route on the SW corner of Kindergarten. The bolts are new-looking, but there is an older-looking blue sling hanging from a 2-bolt anchor.

I've never seen the route listed in a book or online. I know nothing of its history. Feel free to comment on its grade.

The route climbs fairly positive holds on solid rock. There is no opportunity for other gear, but the bolts are closely spaced by Garden standards.

Location

On the far south end of the west face of Kindergarten (Cathedral) Rock. From the South Side Topropes, just hike around the end and it's the first bolted route you'll come to. There is a platform of sandy ground to begin from.

Protection

3 (4?) new bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown climber on route. You can see a guy near the toprope area on the far right.

Lisa on rappel (first time cleaning the anchors.

Fun time on Family Values.

TR from the anchor.

Karen above the first bolt.

Alex pulling onto the hollow flake of the unclaimed TR to the left of Family Values.

Alexandra starting the unclaimed TR to the left of Family Values.

Kimberly on Family Values.

Alexandra climbing Family Values.

My good buddy Brit doing his first lead EVER.

Another shot. All four bolts are visible.

Here's the route. You can see the blue webbing hanging from the anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

loc
colorado springs co

It's more like a 5.7, if that. Really easy climb. Apr 28, 2006

Ryan Carlino

5.7

It's 5.7 now in the description. I thought it looked easier than 5.9. Apr 28, 2006

Scott Edwards

I put this route up in the winter of '06 and never reported it. I called it "Family Values"-.6/.7, due to the chill hangout spot at the bottom (good for my toddler son at the time), the zero approach (for the wife), and I bolted in a way so my daughter would have a good route for one of her first leads (this was put up before Red Rock Canyon was open). It's short but pretty fun. Hope people enjoy. Oct 31, 2007

Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO

5.7

Climbed route today with my wife. All four bolts still look good, as do the anchors. The sling is gone. Overall a fun route, just wish it were longer. Jun 28, 2009

ThreeDee
Manhattan, KS

A really easy, fun route. The wind can be a bit much at times, but overall it's a nice short climb. Last time I was there, about two weeks ago, the hanger on the second bold was missing. Sep 8, 2010

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO

Guess I need to climb this again, thought it was more like 5.6. Fun route, though. Thanks, Scott.

Once you have the TR set up, there's a nice line that starts farther left, and goes pretty much straight up past some questionable holds. Fun and definitely at least 5.7. Be careful not to crank off the big flake 2/3 the way up. Oct 18, 2010

Hansen Wendlandt

5.7+

I pulled off a pretty big chunk of rock (20" x 6") just below the first bolt, which led to a pretty good deck. That doesn't make it much harder, but just be warned that obvious left angle feature is weak. Sep 15, 2014

Cody E
Colorado Springs, CO

5.7+ PG13

Led this today, was probably my fifth lead climb. A fun looking route from the ground, and it was indeed fun... short and sweet. Left anchor bolt was loose and the hanger swung easily - I tightened best I could with the nut tool. The right bolt was tighter, I took the tool to it, and it tightened another 1/4 turn. Felt solid otherwise. Even though it's kind of out of the way, I really recommended this climb. Feb 6, 2015

Nicholas Shelson

Both of the hangers at the top are loose as on June 9th, 2017.

I noticed the hangers loose when I finished my first climb of the day on Friday. There is a radius grinded into the sandstone which is same radius of the hanger. I have had a blast leading this a few times over the last few years. I think of this route as a steep buttress climb with wonderful rails and nice horns to mantle as well. It is an excellent sport climb. The broad, wide start which could be tricky for young or beginner as it requires some good feet and less holds, the anchors were probably pulled side to side depending on starting position while being weighted.

I didn't have a wrench to realign the hanger and tighten the bolts, but I will be buying one now. I backed up the rappel with a sling wedged behind a thin horn. Jun 13, 2017

Devin Arinder
Colorado Springs

5.7 PG13

When I climbed this route on Saturday, there were three bolts on it, not four. I suppose it is the second bolt that is missing. There is a runout between the first and second bolt that could result in a groundfall. It is easy climbing between these bolts, but nonetheless there is a runout that could easily result in a groundfall. Jul 15, 2019

John Ballew

Awesome day in the Garden. Introduced 2 indoor climbers to the great outdoor routes. 4 bolts are tight, but the nut on bolt 2 is loose. Jul 27, 2020

George Bracksieck

There are three bolts for lead protection. One is a flimsy, “paper-clip” Wave glue-in. The two anchor bolts are also Wave glue-ins. I recall an MP thread in which a pic was posted of one that failed in soft sandstone, because those flex more than glue-ins made of thicker metal.

Btw, this route is the farthest left on the South Face. It starts far to the left of the toprope routes, where the West Face closure cable is attached to the rock. Feb 10, 2022