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Routes in South Face

Family Values S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shangrila T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Ridge (descent route) T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
South Side Topropes TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Scott Edwards, 2006
Page Views: 2,768 total, 19/month
Shared By: Ryan Carlino on Apr 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is a short (50'-60') 4-bolt route on the SW corner of Kindergarten. The bolts are new-looking, but there is an older-looking blue sling hanging from a 2-bolt anchor.

I've never seen the route listed in a book or online. I know nothing of its history. Feel free to comment on its grade.

The route climbs fairly positive holds on solid rock. There is no opportunity for other gear, but the bolts are closely spaced by Garden standards.

Location

On the far south end of the west face of Kindergarten (Cathedral) Rock. From the South Side Topropes, just hike around the end and it's the first bolted route you'll come to. There is a platform of sandy ground to begin from.

Protection

4 new bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with a blue sling hanging on it.
Both of the hangers at the top are loose as on June 9th, 2017.

I noticed the hangers loose when I finished my first climb of the day on Friday. There is a radius grinded into the sandstone which is same radius of the hanger. I have had a blast leading this a few times over the last few years. I think of this route as a steep buttress climb with wonderful rails and nice horns to mantle as well. It is an excellent sport climb. The broad, wide start which could be tricky for young or beginner as it requires some good feet and less holds, the anchors were probably pulled side to side depending on starting position while being weighted.

I didn't have a wrench to realign the hanger and tighten the bolts, but I will be buying one now. I backed up the rappel with a sling wedged behind a thin horn. Jun 13, 2017
Cody E
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+ PG13
Cody E   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+ PG13
Led this today, was probably my fifth lead climb. A fun looking route from the ground, and it was indeed fun... short and sweet. Left anchor bolt was loose and the hanger swung easily - I tightened best I could with the nut tool. The right bolt was tighter, I took the tool to it, and it tightened another 1/4 turn. Felt solid otherwise. Even though it's kind of out of the way, I really recommended this climb. Feb 6, 2015
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.7+
I pulled off a pretty big chunk of rock (20" x 6") just below the first bolt, which led to a pretty good deck. That doesn't make it much harder, but just be warned that obvious left angle feature is weak. Sep 15, 2014
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Guess I need to climb this again, thought it was more like 5.6. Fun route, though. Thanks, Scott.

Once you have the TR set up, there's a nice line that starts farther left, and goes pretty much straight up past some questionable holds. Fun and definitely at least 5.7. Be careful not to crank off the big flake 2/3 the way up. Oct 18, 2010
ThreeDee
colorado springs, co
ThreeDee   colorado springs, co
A really easy, fun route. The wind can be a bit much at times, but overall it's a nice short climb. Last time I was there, about two weeks ago, the hanger on the second bold was missing. Sep 8, 2010
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Climbed route today with my wife. All four bolts still look good, as do the anchors. The sling is gone. Overall a fun route, just wish it were longer. Jun 28, 2009
I put this route up in the winter of '06 and never reported it. I called it "Family Values"-.6/.7, due to the chill hangout spot at the bottom (good for my toddler son at the time), the zero approach (for the wife), and I bolted in a way so my daughter would have a good route for one of her first leads (this was put up before Red Rock Canyon was open). It's short but pretty fun. Hope people enjoy. Oct 31, 2007
Ryan Carlino  
 
It's 5.7 now in the description. I thought it looked easier than 5.9. Apr 28, 2006
loc
colorado springs co
loc   colorado springs co
It's more like a 5.7, if that. Really easy climb. Apr 28, 2006