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Leaping Lizards

5.10b, Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.2 from 10 votes
FA: 1985 by Carl Coy and Mark Jacobs
Wyoming > Devils Tower > N Face & Northwest Co…
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route was done originally on aid by Frank Sanders and Dale Chamberlain.

P1: One of my favorite Tower pitches. Thin stemming provides the pump... and be sure your eyes are open wide for good placements. The anchors are out left after about 125 feet.

P2: Very thin crack climbing and a bit of route finding create the crux of the route. Watch for the "hidden hold" at mid pitch.

Protection

RP's, Full set of Stoppers, BD Camalots to #3 and a few shoulder length slings.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alex A
 
[Hide Comment] One of my favorites, thin fingers and stemming, good pro but small wires, Apr 7, 2009
[Hide Comment] I think this route is pg-13 or R rated- 20 feet of dihedral stemming with no pro, with a fall landing you on the slabby terrain below. Sep 3, 2012
[Hide Comment] Mostly cleaned as of 7/15/16. Enough to place small gear and finish the route safely anyway. Watch out for loose rock out far right on the second half of the first pitch. Heads up to users of Zach and Rachael's brown Tower guidebook, the 'secret handhold' on their topo is on the second pitch. Jul 18, 2016