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Routes in Hunter S. Thompson Dome

Chrome Dome S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Eights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
De-Nogginizer, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear & Loathing II T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Gonzo Dogs T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liquid God T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mother's Milk S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runout Rodeo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Squire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walking the Vertical Beach T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J Marshall, D Wonderly, 1987
Page Views: 1,341 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The climb is described as a 2pitch climb by swain, with a 140' pitch followed by a second to the top, but I did not find a good stance of anchor and preferred to climb this as a single 225' (70-meter) pitch to the top of the cliff.
Climb the right-most of the two left-leaning cracks on the left side of the wall to reach a big hueco and some bolts. Clip and go to reach a second crack system that runs out before the climb does- and leaves the leader to finish on a heady but moderate face.
Belay up top on trad gear.

Location

Toward the left-hand side of the crag, and just right of 'Walking the Vertical Beach' there is another route with left-leaning crack system that is followed to access a few bolts and then another crack though a small roof.

Protection

A standard light rack plus bolts for draws. There are places where you will be climbing well above gear, but not difficult moves.

Photos

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Darice Lee  
 
There are lots of holds but the rock is pretty thin and breaky. There is a fantastic belay ledge in the middle that has a nice view. The second pitch is very run out but easy, less than 5.6. At the top there is a thin landing with a tree to which you can anchor. The walk-off is in the back to the right. Mar 8, 2012

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