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Bewitched

5.5 PG13, Sport, 180 ft (55 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 10 votes
FA: unknown, soloed most likely
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 04-Second Pullo… > Observatory
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A great moderate route with a small amount of gear. This climb ascends the right-end of the observatory, climbing the blunt low-angled formation more or less over the right side of the main feature of the observatory. This climb finished below the 'eye of the cyclops', if you will but with enough rope and maybe a little simul-climbing, can be completed to the top.
The grade felt significantly harder than the 5.3 grade given by Swain in his books.

Location

Although there is supposedly an anchor from which to retreat, we climbed the whole formation and walked/scrambled back off to the SE and then back to the base.

Protection

A few bolts. You WILL BE run out.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Steeper zeroeth pitch of Bewitched if you're so inclined. Scramble up the 8' wall, around to the left, and up to the hangers at the start of the first pitch. The 8' wall is not seen in this photo, but is just below and left of the hangers.
[Hide Photo] Steeper zeroeth pitch of Bewitched if you're so inclined. Scramble up the 8' wall, around to the left, and up to the hangers at the start of the first pitch. The 8' wall is not seen in this photo,…
Looking up at the Upper West South Ridge, as seen from the top of Bewitched.
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Green: Scramble up and over to the ridge.
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Yellow: Climbing up to the top, dashes indicated climbing behind a formation in the photo foreground.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the Upper West South Ridge, as seen from the top of Bewitched. Green: Scramble up and over to the ridge. Yellow: Climbing up to the top, dashes indicated climbing behind a formation…
Bewitched first pitch (5.5). A set of hangers can be seen to anchor the belayer if you want.
[Hide Photo] Bewitched first pitch (5.5). A set of hangers can be seen to anchor the belayer if you want.
Anchors for rap into gully off backside of Bewitched climb. Hunter S. Thompson dome seen in the background.
[Hide Photo] Anchors for rap into gully off backside of Bewitched climb. Hunter S. Thompson dome seen in the background.
Single bolt to aid the one-move down scramble to reach Stratocaster ledge. Walk NW off the top of the formation to get here.
[Hide Photo] Single bolt to aid the one-move down scramble to reach Stratocaster ledge. Walk NW off the top of the formation to get here.
Anchors on top of second pitch of Bewitched (on top of formation).
[Hide Photo] Anchors on top of second pitch of Bewitched (on top of formation).
The Observatory is the blunt, low angle, right-facing arete in his image. 'Bewitched' (5.5, R) climbs to just below the "Cyclops eye" near it's top. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/03.
[Hide Photo] The Observatory is the blunt, low angle, right-facing arete in his image. 'Bewitched' (5.5, R) climbs to just below the "Cyclops eye" near it's top. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/03.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This is a fun climb and a party has options on how to do it, given the big ledges in the lower portion. We walked out the ledge leading left from the Stone Wall, scrambled a short (8') wall to a big ledge, and roped up at the north end of that ledge. From there, a pitch leading up and right, back to the crest, includes a short steep section with two bolts, (quite hard to see, as they have dark, old-style Leeper hangers) then a giant hueco with a bolt at the right corner. Climb right and onto the ridge, where you'll find another bolt, then more or less directly up the rounded crest, passing two more bolts to reach a double bolt anchor. Another pitch from there to the top, with one bolt on top.
We walked north, downclimbed an awkward undercut to get fully off the formation at its northern tip, then scrambled right and down to the Stone Wall area and our packs.
There are occasional gear placements, but not many. We happened to belay at one of the bolts below the double-bolt station and did use a .75 cam combined with the single bolt. That was nice. Mar 8, 2009
cassondra l
  5.5 PG13
[Hide Comment] Fun route. Well bolted at the crux. Pretty laid back in the runout up the arete. New bolts up to the the Eye of the Cyclops, and the two bolt anchor is new as well. Didn't go to the top of the formation, but rapped w/2ropes. Probably fine to rap down the front of the formation w/70m and a little easy downclimbing. Can TR the other two routes to the left of Cyclops Eye with top belay and directionals placed on rappel (small cam placement for 5.9 directional, clip top bolt for 5.10 route) or belay from bottom w/two ropes. Mar 2, 2011
[Hide Comment] If you do the second pitch to the top of the formation, the downclimb is seriously awkward. Alternatively, walk due north past some small water pockets to a ledge at the lip, where you'll find two black-painted bolts permitting a one-rope rappel into the gully. Bring a cordelette and rings (or better, quick-links, steel rings, and a wrench), as the bolts currently lack a rappel setup. Nov 25, 2016
KrisG
Viva Las Red Rocks, NV
  5.5 PG13
[Hide Comment] Nice, easy route. Cool position climbing the blunt arete above Stone Wall. Calling this route "sport" belies the fact that it's really a bolted trad climb. That said, the crux is well-bolted.

We started the roped-climbing at the anchors (hangers only see photo) on the left end of the second ledge. To get there, scramble up the 8 ft wall located on the left end of Stone Wall, then walk to the left end of the ledge and up to the next ledge to the hangers. (There are hangers atop the 8' scramble and a steep wall above that if you're inclined.) Our first pitch was about 130' to single-ring anchors in a body-sized hueco. Another ~50' and you reach the cyclops eye, and another ~40' and you reach the chain anchors at the top of the formation (photo).

Descent: I spotted a set of anchors on the back of the formation near a tank that looked like it would drop you into the gully on the right side of Stone Wall (see photo), however, we didn't go that way so I can't speak to its efficacy. Another option: from the top, we walked NE to access the Stratocastor ledge (there's a single bolt to aid the one 5th class move down to the Strat ledge, see photo) and continued up to Upper West South Ridge (mountainproject.com/route/1…) and to the top of Calico peak (highly recommended), but one could hike out via Stratocaster this way. Nov 15, 2020