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Routes in The Pier

Almost but not Quite S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Basement S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cling Free S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Destiny S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drug Sniffing Pot-Bellied Pig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
False Alarm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Geometric Progression S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
How Do You Like them Pineapples? S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Long Walk Off Of a Short Pier S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pier Pressure S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Poco Owes Me a Concert S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seventh Hour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thirsty Quail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Under the Boardwalk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,180 total · 74/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 6, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Jug-o-rama. This climb is big moves mostly to big holds with a few smaller ones up top just as you are pumped and ready to finish the climb. Intersting and big movements. Easier than the other 5.11's nearby.

Location

This route is about 1/2 way down the Pier Gully and if you walk down and just think jugs jugs jugs as you progress down, inspecting each route, this one will be the one you will intuatively pick.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10d
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10d
Beware that the guidebook for this area notes this climb at 5.10b. If you just came from the Black Corridor this jug haul will have some serious surprise compared to the 5.10b/c's over there. This route IMHO is NOT to be missed as everything is there; obvious jugs but so many really fun surprises await! Sep 8, 2006
rex parker
las vegas n.v
  5.11a
rex parker   las vegas n.v
  5.11a
yeah uh this rating is diffrent for red rocks considering how most of red rocks can be over rated i believe that this climb is under rated a technical crux at the start and a slopey hard finish, this climb is a lot harder than it looks i think only the middle section could be a 5-10b the rest is a lot harder than it looks and most of the holds are in bad need of cleaning, slopers so smooth with black shoe and rubeed over chalk residue dosent make it much better,but worth checking out its in the shade most of the day. rex Sep 24, 2006
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11a
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11a
I am glad someone else thought this was hard for 5.10b. It was a stiff warmup. I guess it should not be a surprise about the ratings on this cliff, since the majority of the lines are 5.12's.

A beautiful line no matter what the rating might be... Oct 29, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
up until the brock book was released, this route was rated at .11b (for a good laugh- note that Jared McMillan (co-author of Brock's book) rated this route .11b in his sport climbing guide....)

i dont think its quite .11b- i'd say .10d/.11a. If you're shorter, the start will add some difficulties.

really fun, though! Mar 17, 2007
This was a fun route that I though was 5.9/10/a until the crux finish sequence which was much harder probably 10.d. I may have also felt hard since we had done Epi the day before. I don't think that it was 5.11, it just takes you by supprise the first time you do it. The second time when I knew what was coming it was not nearly as hard. A fun route either way. For the feeling of a solid 5.11 move a few climbs to the left and do Basement, a really interesting and solid 5.11. Mar 17, 2007
karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
  5.11a
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
  5.11a
Not wanting to endanger the belayer on the slippery slop of Long Walk Off a Short Pier (5.9-), I chose to do the next easiest climb at The Pier - according to the guidebook a 5.10b - very well within my abilities. With a fun and somewhat exposed start, a potentially bad landing if you don't hit the first bolt, it was clear from the beginning that this wasn't going to be a 5.10b. The climb is sustained through a series of huecos and leans back most all of the way. Many of the holds are positive although as Rex noted earlier they tended to be gummed with rubber and chalk, especially the sloper-holds. The finale at the end of the pumpfest is a sticky set of sport clips hanging on the end of the chains. Based on my experience of topping out at 5.11a/b's on lead and in comparison to numerous 5.10's throughout RR, I confidently rate this a 5.11a, and well worth the climb. May 10, 2007
Sol Cantwell
5.11a/b
Sol Cantwell  
5.11a/b
Give yourself 11a if you care. Super fun moves with a great rest in the middle (probably what lowers the grade). The crux is getting off the deck and the very last move to the anchors. Apr 19, 2010
dave blackburn
las vegas
5.11a/b
dave blackburn   las vegas
5.11a/b
Big hold broke at the last crux (not me). I thought it felt different!! Sep 3, 2012
Brian Koralewski
Springville, UT
  5.11a/b
Brian Koralewski   Springville, UT
  5.11a/b
The crux is right after the last bolt as you move past some slopers. Mar 18, 2014
Gary Savage
Las Vegas, NV
Gary Savage   Las Vegas, NV
Yep a big flake broke near the top. That flake was also my foothold so it got a little bit harder. Probably solid 11a now. Jun 13, 2015
12/14/2016 ....The Southen Neveda Climbers Coalition with support from ASCA preformed some route maintenance on Under the Boardwalk. Both of the anchor bolts were replaced with Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolts and then equipped with new quicklinks and rap rings. Dec 14, 2016

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