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The Angry Inch

5.10d, Sport, Alpine, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 19 votes
FA: Chris Miller and Pete Paredes, August 2001
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Big Bear City Area > Holcomb Valley… > Pinnacles South > Lost Orbit Rock > Lost Orbit Rock… > Lost Orbit Rock - E F…
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Description

Boulder up a left-slanting rail to a high first bolt and then work up and right on crimpy edges (crux) to snag a jug at the 3rd bolt. From here you have two choices: 1) the original finish - which works up featured rock, clips the last bolt up and left of the arete and then mantles onto the south face where a short bit of face climbing leads to anchors. 2) a newer direct finish - from the third bolt continue straight up, clipping a bolt on the right side of the arete and finish up with the crux of The Longest Yard.

A fun, bouldery route which is even better with the newer direct finish, but unfortunately the fun is over all too soon.

Location

Located on the far-left side of the east face, this is actually on the southeast corner of the formation and starts behind a small tree.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sloping Beauty (5.10b), The Angry Inch (5.10c) and The Longest Yard (5.10a) from left to right.
[Hide Photo] Sloping Beauty (5.10b), The Angry Inch (5.10c) and The Longest Yard (5.10a) from left to right.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Beebe
Twentynine Palms
 
[Hide Comment] Classic for the area. Afternoon shade. A good way to finish yourself off on the way back to the car. Jun 28, 2026