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The Angry Inch
5.10d,
Sport, Alpine, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 19
votes
FA: Chris Miller and Pete Paredes, August 2001
California
> San Bernardino…
> Big Bear Lake Area
> Big Bear North
> Big Bear City Area
> Holcomb Valley…
> Pinnacles South
> Lost Orbit Rock
> Lost Orbit Rock…
> Lost Orbit Rock - E F…
Access Issue: Road Closure in Effect
Details
SR 38
[IN THE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA AREA]
Is closed from 0.2 mi east of Angelus Oaks /at Mill Creek Rd/ to 4.6 mi east of Angelus Oaks /at Hill Ranch Rd/ (San Bernardino Co) - Due to mudslide - Motorists are advised to use an alternate route
Description
Boulder up a left-slanting rail to a high first bolt and then work up and right on crimpy edges (crux) to snag a jug at the 3rd bolt. From here you have two choices: 1) the original finish - which works up featured rock, clips the last bolt up and left of the arete and then mantles onto the south face where a short bit of face climbing leads to anchors. 2) a newer direct finish - from the third bolt continue straight up, clipping a bolt on the right side of the arete and finish up with the crux of The Longest Yard.
A fun, bouldery route which is even better with the newer direct finish, but unfortunately the fun is over all too soon.
Location
Located on the far-left side of the east face, this is actually on the southeast corner of the formation and starts behind a small tree.
Protection
[Hide Photo] Sloping Beauty (5.10b), The Angry Inch (5.10c) and The Longest Yard (5.10a) from left to right.
Twentynine Palms