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Routes in Higher Energy Crag

Blood Whine S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Throttle S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike's Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Bull T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Twisted Chopper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Ben Rosenberg and Mike Bannister
Page Views: 85 total, 1/month
Shared By: ben rosenberg on Apr 4, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Open to climbing Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Climb up the slab to the obvious left-facing dihedral. A wide crack splits the feature; climb this to the top.

Location

This is the offwidth left of the route Full Throttle. Walk off to descend.

Protection

I got a couple of bad stoppers. Future parties should be able to protect with their biggest cams and/or Big Bros.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
This felt harder than 5.9, but only for 2 meters. Then again, we did it in sub-freezing temperatures at sunrise. I suspect it might be easier for smaller people, and Mike is a Hobbit, so I can see where he is coming from....
Climb the easy slab with a hand crack in the corner, put in overhead gear (larger) then pull into a lieback and some grunting for a body length. A #5 Camalot is at the knees for a crux exit, but there is some suspect rock around, so be attentive to place it carefully. I think this would be a very hard and potentially dangerous for a 5.9 leader.
To belay, walk back 5m from the top and sling a few big rocks.
If only the climb were taller than 25', it would get more stars and respect.

Post script edit:
Mike has admitted that the assigned grade was a sandbag and was assigned because this is the 'traditional offwidth sandbag grade.' Apr 6, 2006