Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,068 total · 13/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Apr 4, 2006 with updates from Aaron Glasenapp
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Skull Fuck is just left of Daydream Nation, and right of Forgotten Years.

This route is all about pockets - some more natural than others. Nevertheless, with decent rock, thuggish moves, and thought provoking sequences, Skull Fuck is definitely worth doing.

Skull Fuck was re-bolted (along with Moroni Blows) in September 2018 with new glue-ins, and is now a safe route. The new wave bolts should withstand the early season seepage quite a bit better than the old bolts. A 50 meter rope will easily get you back to the ground

Protection

Quickdraws. There are 2 fixed chain draws to help with cleaning, and there may even be permas on the whole thing. There are fixed steel carabiners at the top to lower.

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Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.13d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.13d
The fifth bolt is hanging out about 1/4 inch behind the hanger. Someone has attached the link to the chain, so nobody will be tempted to use it. As the description says, make sure you inspect the bolts on this line. A few of them are due for replacement. Nov 18, 2013
Train4life
Boulder, CO
Train4life   Boulder, CO
I was on this about a year ago! Has this been re-bolted since? Bolts had cobwebs and looked super old and sketchy. This was such a fun route that I would really like to work it and send it this year! But, the route also has some of the sketchiest bolts. I will come and clean it this year if someone could bolt it! I would be extremely appreciative! I would re-bolt it if I had the equipment and knew how to do it! Thank you very much if anyone bolts it...I will def. donate some money to the cause! Feb 4, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.13d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.13d
No, it has not been rebolted. The condition of this route and that bolt in particular are as of the end of November, 2013. The route is doable until replacement, the crux fall will be a little longer, should you blow it. Feb 16, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
Train4life   Boulder, CO
You mean do-able and will be longer if a bolt blows out? Feb 24, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.13d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.13d
Ok. The 5th bolt is attached to itself, biner to hanger, because it is garbage. Now, I suppose you could clip it, but it is in that position for a reason. The hanger is about 1/4 inch away from the rock because the bolt and sleeve are pulling out. Now, it IS doable, but if you blow the crux sequence, your fall WILL be longer, because you should not be using the bolt. So, I worked it took longer falls and then punched through the crux w/o falling, through two sections, ground through crux, clipped sixth through anchor. The rest of the bolts appear fine, but, use your discretion. And, since this route seeps every year up until summer/fall, reinspect the bolts anyway. The best time to climb this and day Dream, are in the fall through early winter. Mar 5, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
Train4life   Boulder, CO
Does anyone think that this will be rebolted at any point in time or is it just going to go until it is unsafe to climb and then taken down? May 6, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.13d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.13d
I would suggest finding another route. Like I stated before, the route is doable, with a longer fall if you blow the crux. I suggest that you find someone with a drill that can assist you with replacing the bolt in question. Spend some time in the Rifle community, and see if you can find someone who will help you with your goal of retro-bolting the route. In the mean time, there are plenty of other routes in Rifle with a similar grade and length. I would suggest Dumpster BBQ, Fluff Boys, or for a harder grade, The 7 PM Show. Jun 4, 2014
Aaron Glasenapp
Denver, CO
Aaron Glasenapp   Denver, CO
Skull Fuck was recently re-bolted with glue-ins and is now a very safe route. While it may need some occasional cleaning of cobwebs, it's in pretty good shape. Get on it! Sep 19, 2018