Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Bingham, 2003
Page Views: 1,993 total · 13/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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33 Opinions

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Superb, continuously interesting climbing. Starts with a layback flake and veers up and left through varied challenging moves to the anchors.

Location

Southeast side of Poultry Pillar (across from the Crack House on Castle Rock). It's the first route to the left of the heavily featured/fragile rock No Climb Zone. Look for the obvious layback flake.

Protection

Bolts with rap anchors at the top.

Photos

benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
stumbled upon this route today and decided to tick it off. It was an okay route. The first time, I veered out to the left around the third bolt, which made it easier. The second time, I decided to stay on the face the whole way and not use anything to the left...it made the route much better. May 14, 2012
Climbingblues  
5.9
Definitely a fun route. The first two bolts are challenging for the budding 5.9 climber but definitely worth doing. Climb starts backing off mid way up and thin finishes on 5.8 friction. Jul 3, 2013
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
 
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
 
As far as short 5.9s go, this one is super fun in my book. The lieback is short, but sweet. Jun 28, 2015
Corey Beinhart
Boise, ID
  5.9
Corey Beinhart   Boise, ID
  5.9
The beginning layback is superb! It's a serious shame that it's only 15 feet. After the layback is some cool face climbing and the route finishes with some interesting friction slab moves. Would be a pretty superb warmup. Nov 25, 2018